2004 Easter Island to Tahiti via Pitcairn

See Previous 2004 Voyage Logs

Ship's crew, cook and scribe Noreen Hill sends her account of
the 49 night voyage - from Marquesas, French Polynesia to Tahiti..
(be warned: it'll make you very sorry you missed this trip.. Ed.)
See Easter Island to Pitcairn and Tahiti  picture gallerys here .

Part two

After dropping the hook in what turned out to be a very rocky anchorage we shuttled Tony and Elaine ashore to clear customs at the local Gendarmerie in the capital of Hiva Oa. Unfortunately a massive cloud hung over the magnificently towering hills but it did not stop the crew from enjoying their day ashore. Peter, Sarah, Nic, Alan and I attempted to locate a waterfall near some petroglyphs, but after 2 ½ hours of trekking through almost knee-deep mud, we decided to turn back and hitch into town.

We stopped for a sheltered lunch of processed cheese and baguettes in the soccer field. The local mosquito, the Nono, was beginning its feeding around the same time, so we moved along to avoid being eaten alive. We were taken in and spoilt by Michael, Rita, Mike and Mitch and their hotel.

A swim, hot/long shower and fantastic meal were the perfect way to end a wet day. The following day was an even damper day and the other half of the crew was welcomed back to the Pearl Resort to be treated the same as we had. We are very appreciative for their kind gesture! There is nothing better than some luxury after two months at sea and we couldn’t thank them enough. We made way Tahuata into the first calm anchorage since leaving Auckland.

Stacey and I were so chuffed to not use slip mats on tables or fiddles on the stove. everything stayed where we put it. Ashore, James, Nic and I played volleyball with the local kids for a few hours, great to get some exercise. Stacey visited Felix, the local Tatouer and returned to the ship sporting a beautifully made turtle, the envy of all because he only had time for her.

In Oa Pou voyage crew ventured ashore for a walk between the towering columns of rock while crew swam in the dark, almost black waters off the ship. In Taiohae, the capital of Nuku Hiva, I managed to organize fruit and veggies before visiting Brice, the Tattooist! For two and a half hours I gritted my teeth and returned to the ship with an addition around my ankle. Marquesan tattooing is famous for its intricacy and symmetrical designs, all done in free hand and each symbol having a specific meaning. The local tattoist are masters of their craft and with this, Barry, Peter, Nic, James and Elaine as well as three of our voyage crew were booked in to visit Brice over the next two days. I am sure Brice is a happy man even if he spent the past three days hunched over on a tiny wooden stool trying to keep us still.

Nic and I were stopped on the side of the road after our third walk along the waterfront and invited to join Michael and Mike up to the Toovii Plateau for an awesome view of the ship in her bay, a must for anyone returning to the island.

Early on the morning of the 7th we motored around to Akatia Bay where we would soon enter the jungle for a treck to one of world’s highest waterfalls. We trudged through sticky, ankle deep mud and crossed three waist deep rivers in efforts to see the base of the falls. We refreshed ourselves in the mist before making the jouney back through old ruins of what must have been a village years ago. The entire walk, we followed a road built of rocks and small boulders that at one time allowed a path for the royalty to follow to get to the cascade.

After an exhausting day for some we threw in a Pirate and Wench themed fancy dress party to end off the day. Elaine and Sarah mixed up a rum punch and Elaine’s cocktail list added some spice to the party. Barry strummed the guitar and we sang along to sea shanties, very Peaceful on board tonight.

Today, on Apataki, of the Tuomotus, we celebrated Mary’s birthday. She must have been good all year because the weather Gods provided glorious sunshine all morning with some light refreshing afternoon showers and then a clear star filled evening sky! We spent the day beach combing on the corral atoll and snorkeling in the crystal blue, fish filled waters before a BBQ lunch ashore! With many helping hands firewood was collected, a pit was dug and steaks, sausages and chicken were grilled.

After a quiet afternoon of more snorkeling and wood collecting we gathered back on board for a light dinner and birthday cake before our Beach Party ashore. Barry had spent the morning scaling palm trees and provided 20 fresh coconuts, which Elaine, with the help of Rita, filled with rum and we drank with straws out of the nut! Peter had the “wood chopping blues”(song improvised by Barry) and kept a constant flame burning until midnight when the last boats returned from shore.

I heard a rumor that Mary could not have asked for a better birthday. I know I couldn’t have asked for a better day!

After quick overnight sail we anchored in Cook’s Bay off the island of Moorea, a picturesque anchorage of lush green hills, pineapple plantations and amazing shimmering waters. We are very privileged to visit such places, ashore we hitch hiked around to the small town to window shop at stunning Tahitian pearls, treat ourselves to ice cream and do some sarong shopping! The following afternoon we motor sailed to Tahiti…wow after a long trip we had in our sights the island we set out for some 45 days ago!

We had a final fancy dress party where we had some great imaginative costumes. Stacey and I were conjoined at the hip and went as Siamese twin cooks; Elaine and Paul were tourist twins ready to explore Tahiti and James stood rigged as the Nun, himself. Bill decided to enlighten all of us and provide a re-cap of the time ashore in Pitcairn, very humorous and we enjoyed reliving the experience. It boggles the mind to think back on the things we’ve seen over the past 80 days since leaving Auckland. To finish things off Bill provided some activity and entertainment with organizing a hopping contest. We stood on one leg and counted down, three-two-one-GO, 34 of us began hopping on our dominant leg, Bill definitely had the advantage for this and I think that’s why he lasted as long as he did. He is a man of great energy and very young at heart and Sarah, Paul and Mike did very well to keep up as long as they did, imagine the cramps! Barry got his fiddle out and we had a crash course in dancing from Jenny. We formed groups of three and did a few reels and jigs to the brilliant music. I think the evening was a success; it was our last night at anchor and last night of all being on board before coming along side the main wharf in Papaetee.

With a bit of confusion regarding Visas and such we finally had the OK to sign our Voyage Crew off the ships articles. With a final group photo and a series of farewells, bags were taken ashore and the ship was very empty and quiet for the first time in a few months!

Now we will stay alongside for 10 days to do some necessary maintenance, have four days and nights off (WOW!) each and try to explore as much of this expensive island as possible! We have the privilege of being right in the town center and love the ability to come and go off the ship as we please. In the evenings, vans converted into small kitchens (Roulettes) park in the square and suddenly the smell of BBQ, Chinese Food and Delicious Crepes (take it from me, I’ve tried them!) waft through the air. Two men sit in the band stand and strum ukuleles and guitar to the beat of music machine until the wee hours of the morning while children chase each other on bicycles and young parents teach their babies to walk, teenagers break dance and couples sit on the park benches and people watch! It is very quiet during the day, except for the ferries coming and going but at night the place is alive with colors, smells and sounds!

The crew sends their best to friends and family!

Cheers, Noreen

(Daisy)

Part one here