Tall Ship Soren Larsen ~ South Pacific Sail Training Adventure for all ages
  

 

South Pacific 2004 Voyage:
V200 Tahiti & Society Islands

7-17th June 2004

The Brigantine Soren Larsen has commenced the next leg of her voyages in the wake of Captain Cook - sailing through the islands and lagoons of the Society Islands, French Polynesia.

20th June 2004.
Voyage Crew Samantha C. sends this -
"Noreen asked if I could forward on to you the group photo from the end of V200 - I had a great trip and have already looked to see what I can do next!"
Many thanks
Samantha

Tues 15th June 2004 - this in from the ship:
"Ia ora na
Voy 200 - A daybreak start on Sunday to the Papeete produce market (the best day of the week for it). Everything else being shut it seemed a good idea once V/Crew completed the formailities and had signed on Ship's Articles to leave Papeete Harbour for Point Venus. Monday morning had V/C getting familiar with the ship (and the warm water and Pt Venus!) while Tod and Elaine made our way to Papeete to obtain Inter-Island clearance from the authorities. Overnight to Huahine - Reef entrance to an attractive harbour and sleepy town. The snorkelling, cycling, exploring, viewing and Hinan o-ing had begun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onwards to Raiatea where the Polynesian Navigators marae of Taputapuatea occupied us; next day to Tahaa, Raiatea’s twin, a quieter place with more beautiful anchorages than we could take advantage antage of. Snorkelling by all then explorations ashore to either a vanilla plantation in one direction or a pearl farm and a small resort in another.

Onwards again with a good, lively sail to Bora Bora; it’s spectacular peak tantalisingly sighted even before arrival in Raiatea. Two days here coincided with a Bora Bora custom dance competition and display that was greatly enjoyed.

Enroute to Moorea we discovered two more reef passes through the Tahaa/Raiatea cluster conveniently during lunch, trave lling overnight and magnificent Opunohu Bay, Moorea for b’fast.

Swimming from the ship, hiking to the lookout and snorkelling on the reef followed by a lovely dinner on deck.

 

Today.... Cook’s Bay, Moorea. "


Cook's Bay Moorea 2004

 

Captain Tod Thompson (Soren Larsen 2004) writes:
"Persuading the crew to leave behind the bare breasted Polynesians (an other ethnicicities!) on the beach of Pt Venus, Tahiti to rejoin our square-rigged sailing ship was only one of the several connections I felt with Capt Cook today. As master of the NZ based, British brigantine Soren Larsen setting off on the next leg of our South Pacific voyage I had to use the enticement of furthur Pacific island discoveries instead of naval discipline to get them back on board.

With the imminent transit of Venus happening in our time I realised I was in a unique position to appreciate the choice of anchorage Cook had chosen 235 years before for his expedition to observe the transit in his time. An anchorage sheltered from the prevailing Trade Winds with enough of a pass in the fringing reef to be able to sail in and out of.

As those in Europe and Britain observe the transit in the morning hours, here at Point Venus in the South Pacific it is night time, and those keeping anchor watch gaze at the southern stars in the dark hours before dawn.

sam and joe on the sheetsToday, the crew loosed the square sails aloft and the jibs, hoisted the mainsail in readiness of the anchor leaving the bottom of Matavai Bay. The backed squaresails and jibs turned the ship to face out to sea through the reef. The whole ship's company felt satisfaction at doing the manouvre under sail as Cook and his crew would have done. And I admired them all the more - as I had the back-up of the auxillary engine ticking over on stand-by...

We shall make passage across the Sea of Moon, past Moreea to make next landfall downwind at Huahine."

 

 

1769 - Monday 17th July:
'Endeavour anchors at Owarhe (Fare), Huahine. Cook goes ashore with Banks, Solander and Monkhouse. Meets Ori, King of the Island and Tupia. Surveys Island. '

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5th June 2004: Everyone has made good use of their time and all are excitied about the next leg of the journey.  The ship has a full compliment of 22 guests Voyage Crew from all over the world, who joined on Sunday for this 10 night trip. Having been introduced to the permanent crew, signed on to the ship's articles divided into 3 deck watches, our new shipmates were introduced to the safety procedures and the basics of sail handling.  The ship departed from the main wharf and went to Point Venus to anchor for the evening. 

Tahiti Point Venus at sunset. Photo Noreen Hill8th June 2004
Two of our Voyage Crew who have just joined for this voyage give these observations -
Alan McKie,  71, Washington USA and Brian Gray, 59, from Christchurch, New Zealand.

Alan McKie: Transit of Venus Revisited
"The Tall ship Soren Larsen glided into its anchorage just off Venus Pt., Tahiti on June 6, 2004. In 1769, 236 years earlier, Capt.James Cook, sponsored by English Royal Society, anchored in the very same spot aboard HMS Endeavour.
His ship was part of a grand plan by astronomer Edmund Halley to observe the very transit of Venus across the face of the sun. With transit observations from several locations, around the world, it would be possible to calculate the distance of the earth from the sun. The 21st century adventurers aboard the Soren Larsen, 22 paying Voyage Crew and 12 professional sailors, captained by Tod Thompson were following in the wake of the great Cpt.Cook. A sense of history revisited was palpable aboard this Brigantine for both old and new salts as we set out on this Pacific sailing adventure."

Brian Gray:Transit of Venus
"To be in Tahiti and moored off Pt. Venus on the eve of another transit of that most sensuous of planets. Going ashore it was dissapointing to find no plaque commemorating Cook's three month stay at Matavai Bay, though the remains of the fort he constructed can still be seen. Radio and TV in New Zealand had prepared me for the current event, but I had not made the connection with the historical site until we anchored on our sailing ship, the Soren Larsen, in the bay beside the Point, which now hosts a white lighthouse.
Nick on lookout aloftWhile narratives of the time focus on the crew's attraction to the local women, the officers must have enjoyed the level point and its beach behind which rise the verdant cloud swathed hills of Tahiti's main island. What a pity that because of this years trajectory the transit will not be seen from this idyllic spot. How fortunate Cook and his crew were on June 3rd 1769, however frustrating recording the actual even was for them."

Here of course was where Cook built Fort Venus for the main point of observation of the transit, while another was set up on Moorea.

 

Captain James Cook writes:
"Thursday 1st June 1769. This day I sent Lieutenant Gore in the Long-boat to York Island [Moorea] with Dr Munkhouse and Mr Sporing (a Gentleman belonging to Mr Banks) to observe the Transit of Venus, Mr Green having furnished them with Instruments for that purpose. Mr Banks and some of the Natives of this Island went along with them."

To see more about the Transit of Venus - see the BBC Open University website here

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5th June 2004:
The ship has spent two weeks in Papeete, after the end of the Easter Island - Pitcairn voyage, during which time there was opportunity for some maintenance, reprovisioning and some day time off for the crew, during which they explored the main island of Tahiti and spent a few nights over on Moorea.  This was rather less than the 8 weeks that Cook spent here with Endeavour in preparation for his observation of the transit of Venus on 3 rd June 1769.

The days in port are precious maintenance time and while the crew take time off in shifts, work on the ship continues. Topsides were painted, the aft cabin top revarnished, some sail repairs and small jobs in the rig.

In 1769 the maintenance jobs list also continued unabated:

May 3rd "Strip'd & Overhaul'd the Foretopmast rigging."
5th "Sent the Cooper ashore with Hoops and Staves to repair the water Cask".
6th "Employ'd on the Fore Rigging which we find in good order".
9th "The Carpenters Employ'd caulking the sides. Every thing goes on very quietly."
10th: "This Day Gammon'd the Bowsprit & set up the Fore Rigging."
11th: "Capenters Employ'd caulking the Quarter Deck. Struck the Main Topmast to overhaul the rigging".
19th: "This day the Carpenters finish'd the Quarter-deck.
24th: "Carpenters employ'd caulking the sides".
29th: "Employ'd in the rigging".

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NEW See Noreen's Voyage Log account
Easter Island was by far the most mystical place I have visited. There was a certain feeling about the island and its people were so proud of their island, their Rapa Nui. The days I spent ashore were better than I could have dreamed. The island and its history had such story to tell that the two days were not nearly enough. It is one of the places you must add to your “places to visit” list. Part One:

Noreen Hill's Log part 2. in French Polynesia
In Oa Pou voyage crew ventured ashore for a walk between the towering columns of rock while crew swam in the dark, almost black waters off the ship.

NEW - See Picture gallery here

 

See Previous 2004 Voyage Logs

 

 

Read the piece on Soren Larsen in The Sunday Times Sunday March 14th 2004 in the Travel section of the website www.timesonline.co.uk - titled 'Intellectual rigger on the high seas' - by David Mills

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VOYAGE CREW RETURNING HOME: 
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