Tall Ship Soren Larsen Sailing adventure for all ages

We heaved anchor and made our way around to the bay where our feast would be, an amazing anchorage where the visibility was a perfect 100% at 30 meters! Standing on deck seeing coral boomies, sharks and small fish cruising around underneath us is one of the main reasons Tonga remained so vivid in my mind, but the dancing and feast provided was the other! The locals displayed their handiwork in the grass as the sun was setting and then we watched as the children prepared for their show. Mothers rubbing handfuls of coconut oil onto their children who were decorated in feathers, flowers and grass skirts! The children dance to raise money to cover their school fees, as they perform it is custom to stick monetary notes onto the oiled skin to show appreciation for the dancing! With great singing and graceful dancing telling a story of the past we enjoyed every minute of the show, but our stomachs were growling for the feast we saw being laid out behind us.
The table was covered in banana palms and small bamboo shoots had been cut and filled with an arrangement of tasty island cuisine ranging from octopus, to lobster salad, to taro leaves filled with fish in coconut sauce to Cassava and yam! It was very filling and a very enjoyable atmosphere. After the tables were cleared, three locals brought out their stringed instruments and asked if I would serve the kava for our kava session! We sat cross legged on pandanas mats and many had their first taste of Tongan Kava; “an amalgam of up to 14 analgesics and anesthetics, and has natural pain and appetite-suppressant features. The root also has antibacterial, relaxant, diuretic and decongestant properties.” We were each given a few small bowls of the dishwater tasting mixture and heard of stories of men sitting till all hours of the night sometimes drinking up to 50 bowls of the stuff! All in all it was a great day and even better evening!

We attempted some whale watching, but because of the banking hours we had to return to town disappointed to catch the money exchange before it closed! We would have other opportunities; the whales are just arriving in Vavau to give birth and raise their young and up to 700 animals are reported to be around the area!
There are many islands to get lost in, in the Vavau group, truly a boatman’s paradise! There is much to see and do; Swallows Cave and Mariners Cave are musts for anyone visiting the area. The acoustics in Swallows cave made it perfect for the conch blowing and Barry’s fiddle playing inside the large crevice where we sat silent in the dinghy enjoying the moment! In Mariners Cave we had many brave souls take deep breaths and dive down approximately two meters and across four into the darkness, coming up in an underwater cave. Each time the ocean surged a fine mist came, also causing the ears to become plugged with the pressure change. The sun reflected through the water and once our eyes adjusted we had a great view of the cave and the tropical fish swimming all around feeding off the coral in the entrance! As we began our trip out of Vavau and towards the next island group we once again spotted whales…. only this time we would pursue them, of course keeping our distance! For the longest time we had quick displays of tales, pectoral and dorsal fins and the occasional breech from a playful calf, but then cries from aloft said, “whale, one point off the starboard bow” and almost before we could look in time, two large humpbacks surfaced just in front of the bowsprit, leaving us all cheering for the wonderful exhibit! An awesome experience, but as the evening was drawing to a close and we were elegantly sailing along, dolphins were spotted in the bow wake. They gracefully played in the wake of the ship, the phosphorescence sparkling all around. They dropped tiny diamonds as they danced through the peaceful waters, making us all the more appreciative of the beautiful world beneath the ship!
With the winds strengthening we anchored off the Happ’ai island of Nomuka. Some ventured ashore for a muddy walk through a village on a nearby island, while others snorkeled in the crystal waters or beach combed on the sandy beach of Nomuka. We were hoping for a BBQ on the beach but due to the unfortunate weather conditions we decided to make due with the galley stovetop and the all ready prepared salads for a makeshift BBQ on board! On the morning of the 27th we motor sailed south towards Tongatapu. Our 60 mile or so trip took most of the day and after anchoring off “the King’s Island, Pangimotu” many were keen to eat an early dinner so that drinks ashore would ease the mind after the days trip! Three little puppies, a kitten, warmly welcomed us and of course the locals running the island resort. A ping-pong table and dartboard were an instant hit with all!
As yet another trip is drawing to a close, the fancy dress bag is pulled from the bilges and as I sit here in my bunk I can hear the laughter of the Voyage Crew examming the costumes. The men trying on the dresses, the women suiting themselves with a wig; generally, all look ridiculous in whichever outfit is chosen! Tomorrow is time for signing off the ships papers and wishing our new friends a fantastic onward journey. Sadly one of our deckhands, Chris, is departing here in Tonga as well as his family who has sailed with us the past 17 days! We wish him all the luck and thank him for a hardworking 8-month adventure, see you on the “net” Chris!