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See Previous 2004 Voyage Logs

Tonga to Fiji 2004 via Vava'u and southern Fiji islands

Ship's crew and cook Noreen Hill's log of one of her favourites trips so far - Part one :


Alan enjoying his VB.

alan preparing the sausages for the Barbie.

bart at the BBQ.

grama on helm, pauline and phil relaxing.

"I am going into my twentieth month aboard Soren Larsen and I have to admit that this month is by far the most exciting of all! I have been sending emails and pictures and writing a journal home to my family for the four years that I have been sailing on Tall ships, but now my dream is coming true…. my family is no longer living through my tales of adventure, they are here to experience it themselves! James, my brother who is “chief deckhand” (or so he thinks!!) on board, and I caught the local Nuku’alofa bus to the airport. When we stepped off and walk to the passenger side window to pay we were shocked that the 23km trip costs us a whole dollar each! We were greeted at the airport by a handful of our former voyage crew who were “patiently” waiting for their flight back to New Zealand; they would board the plane that our mom, sister and grandmother would be arriving on. How exciting to see my 5 year old sister Haley jumping up and down so eager to see us, we collected all the luggage and made way to the ship for their first view of Soren!

Liam, our new deckhand replacing Chris was slowly getting over his jetlag, yet very quickly “learning the ropes”. He has fit in just fine and is very keen to help out where he can, welcome Liam! The weekend was spent introducing our family to the ship, getting everyone adjusted to the ways of the ship and of course provisioning for our next leg of the voyage! Monday morning brought our new voyage crew, unfortunately with them came the rain. After getting luggage below and veggies stored in the lockers, we went below where it was dry for lunch and crew introductions. Lots of new sailors who were eager to try anything, the rain continued to drizzle down, but it did not stop our VCs from climbing aloft and experiencing life on a tall ship!

We attempted to run from the weather system that seemed to be lulling over us, and after an overnight motor sail we anchored of Uoleva…where there seemed to be miles of beach stretching along a beautifully turquoise sea. We were very careful all day to not say the “B”word, but we made preparations for a meal ashore which was prepared over a campfire in the sand…we did not want to jinx ourselves and have the rain return, but with much luck we had a delicious BBQ on the beach after a lovely afternoon of snorkeling and beachcombing.


haley being guided into the village.

haley giving the foc'sle elephant a bath.

haley, watcha doin.

heave away, haul away.

hey lost boys, come on!.

james and paul going aloft.

leigh and his birthday cake for jennifer.

nav talk.

We arrived in Neiafu, the capital of Vava’u just in time for lunch, many were very eager for an evening meal ashore so boats brought nearly everyone ashore for an afternoon at the markets and an experience of Tongan dancing at one of the two waterfront bars. The following morning we made the trip into Swallow’s cave for a snorkel and then I managed to get enough entries for a sand sculpture contest! We would find a beach that provided the necessary tools for the sculptures and I later joined them ashore to judge the entries…what a task! With some help we managed to pick a first, second and third…very tough choices. We had a variety of sculptures, from a dingo, to a crazy face to a very thoughtful birthday cake (for Jennifer’s 26 th!), to a turtle tower, to the drunken dragon, the winner. It was a really great way to spend the afternoon and many commented on how they hadn’t played in the sand since they were kids! Because of our time schedule we rushed back to the ship in time for a swing on the Tarzan rope before boats went back ashore for a trek through the jungle to a Tongan feast on Barnacle Beach! Sixteen of us tramped through a small village to a spot where local women had their handicrafts laid out on their Tapa cloth, making very good deals with all interested! We sat in front of a table strewn with a colorful mix of fish, salads, root vegetables; fruit and then the roast pigs were brought in! We were introduced to what each of the dishes were and then invited to join our host in prayer before indulging ourselves on this fine Feast! The entire time we were there a group of local men sipped kava while strumming the guitar and ukulele, gradually the pace slowed and we enjoyed our meal to the quiet tunes of the music. After the table was cleared and our tummies were well full, a few of the village students provided us with a fine display of custom Tongan dancing! Their skin was glistening from the coconut oil and it was the perfect consistency for money to be stuck to their arms in appreciation for the dancing and for donation towards their school fees. After many thanks, Malo Apito, we turned on our torches for the 15-minute trek back through the jungle to where we awaited the return of the ships dinghy to bring us home to bed, what a great day!

Sunday is a day of rest in Tonga and because nothing is open, we enjoyed Mother Nature and went whale watching! After lunch we brought out the snorkel gear for a dive into Mariner’s Cave. There was a vast display of tropical fish and coral along the cliff edge and those who ventured underwater into the cave had the experience of seeing the mist come and go with the surge of the sea and the beautiful reflection of the light through the water! After cleaning ourselves up and anchoring back in Neiafu harbor we had a “dress in your best” dinner party and enjoyed the calm waters under the starry sky!

We cleared customs, provisioned the ship, spent our last Tongan dollars and made the ship ready for sea, Fiji here we come!


nic and haley on helm.

peti selling her baskets.

sand sculptures in the making.

sand sculptures1.

sunset over tofua.

the first place winners, the drunken dragon.

the hill clan aloft.

tongan dancer, beginner!.

tongan dancer.

tongan feast1.

vava'u market.

See Noreen's voyage Tonga to Fiji : Part two

 

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