The following morning our guide met us on the beach, while a group of 13 of us trekked in the hot sun towards the waterfall, another ventured into the village for the Sunday morning church service! We walked along the road which the guides assured us was the “main road”, a thin dirt path that only one vehicle could possible amble down, slowing to prevent the entire unit from shaking in the pot holes, we followed it until we saw a jungle path leading into the hills. After a short trek we could hear a flowing stream and after an adventurous crossing to the other side (some were piggybacked!) we laughed when the guide said he was sorry, we crossed too early! Eventually we found ourselves at the base of the waterfall and we did not hesitate in the slightest to refresh ourselves in the delightful waters, a few sat back and watched, but I don’t think they really knew what they were missing!
By sunset on Sunday evening we had anchored off the beach near Ranvetlem, Ambrym, home to the “volcano”! Jim had the unfortunate news that we were unable to do the 3-hour hike to the crater, due to the fact that the mountain is closed every year between September and January to let the mountain “rest”. In the morning snorkel gear was issued and we landed off the volcanic rocks for a look once again at the underwater world. What a surprise, so many new fish that we had never laid eyes on swam freely below us on the colorful displays of purple, blue, orange and red coral. It was all very young coral, and so the brightness was such a treat for the eyes! After lunch there was Rom dance organized in a nearby village, a special type of dancing only done on Ambrym! Although the dancing was different than what was seen in Banam Bay, there were no complaints to the entertainment provided! I remained on board for the afternoon; during the time I was visited by many local men in outriggers (a type of canoe) wanting to trade carvings for t-shirts or vegetables for rice/sugar. It always brings a smile to my face to see how happy they are to receive a second hand t-shirt in exchange for beautifully carved wood, I suppose they think the same of me when I admire their handiwork? Needless to say the attention that the ship gets from the villagers is so wonderful, we even had a string band come aboard and play for us before the evening meal! They were a group of about ten boys/men who sang to us in a voice which I can only call nasally, yet beautiful, all the while strumming their instruments and swinging back and forth in unison with the hugest smiles on their faces. I think they enjoy playing as much as we do listening!

Now, early this morning the dinghy ran ashore to pick up a few locals to accompany us around to the hot water beach, 35 people later the ship was underway for the 5-mile journey to the relaxing pool. Although very shy, I encouraged the kids to come sit in the galley for the trip across and have a taste of last nights left over custard, I think they were glad they did! The boys took turns climbing aloft while the girls stared in at me through the galley hatches as I prepared lunch for the 65 of us onboard. After anchoring off the beach the boats were loaded and we soon found ourselves soaking any aches and pains away that we may have had in the thermal pools, only to cool ourselves in the surf of the sea! What a treat, and what an amazing two days it has been!

We are now underway for the island of Santo, three of our voyage crew are departing early tomorrow evening so we are undertaking one last night watch to get there on time! It has become very hot and humid and as I lay in my bunk typing this, my computer is beginning to heat my lap and I am in need of some fresh air…it is a good thing I got up when I did, the evening sky is lit up in a lovely pink tinge, the glows of middle earth rising into the clouds showing us that although the mountain is closed for hiking, the volcano continues to bubble away…

With six voyage crew departing early, preparing dinner seems all the more easy, I am sure they wished they hadn’t missed our “native” themed fancy dress party! I was able to bribe everyone, if they got dressed in their costumes, I would put out the popcorn I had just popped! Soon enough the deck was scattered with people in costume, some I did not even recognize! Elaine and Bobby made a tasty rum punch kindly supported by the captain and in no time the final supper was served…it was far too hot below decks to be dressed in costumes so we scattered on deck for the feast! By 1000hrs on the 9th, morning smoko was the perfect time for all of us to gather and bid farewell to our voyage crew. Jim presented ship’s certificates and also provided some knowledge of the area before our group photo, we said goodbye and once again began clearing the ship for turnaround.

We are losing another two crewmembers, friends, cabin mates…our carpenter, Nic, from New Zealand is heading home for the birth of his niece while our second mate, Alan heads home to Australia for a college reunion. The two will be missed but once again we look forward to meeting their replacements!

Take care my friends! Noreen