See Previous 2005 Voyage Logs

Unbelievable Voyage to the End of the Earth.

What a trip!  

It is hard to believe we were total strangers when we met at Aore on the 3rd
October. Now we are friends, watchkeepers, part of a team that heaves on
ropes, sets sails, puts them up, pulls them down, works together, plays
together. A great bunch of people!

........and the highlights:

     The village people on the island of Gaua and their brilliant water
dance performed by twelve women. Such a noise they created with their
rhythmic and synchronised splashing. You have to see it to believe it.
Afterwards they enjoyed our unsuccessful attempt to mimic their performance.
Even with tuition we were hopeless. Such a lot of fun and laughter!

     Sailing into the extinct volcano of Ureparapara late in the
afternoon. A wicked black cloud hung menacingly over the north-western rim.
As the blazing red sun passed the short distance between the cloud and the
crater's ridge, it seemed briefly that this volcano had indeed come to life.
A memorable sight!

     Anchoring in the cradle of Ureparapara?s crater as Venus nestled in
the cradle of the new moon above us. The menacing clouds had drifted away
leaving us with a sky ablaze with stars accompanied by the sounds of welcome
from the outriggers alongside. Beautiful!

     The men's custom dance at Ureparapara: the simple bushland setting,
the sound of  thundering feet, the weird and wonderful headdresses.
Unbelievable!

     The footy match at Ureparapara: Village People 4 defeated Soren
Larsen 1. Superman Steve (sans specs) scored the first goal of the game but
the team tired early no doubt due to the fact that many of the players had a
strenuous climb to the top of the crater only a few hours earlier. The local
women and children got great enjoyment from our female players giving their
men a hard time on the field. Chickens on the sidelines searched
determinedly for food unaware of the game in progress, until the ball came
their way. Then they set their wings like Soren?s sails and scattered
noisily to safer pastures. What a spectacle!

     The brilliant waterfalls and waterhole at western Gaua. Here was
every sailor's dream: endless supply of fresh water, fabulous pressure,
built-in spa, no time constraints, no waiting, all in together. So fresh and
clean. The people here surely live in heaven. The village was so pretty with
beautiful colourful gardens, well-maintained buildings and in such a
picturesque spot. They have every right to be proud. This was picture
postcard stuff at its very best. I did not want to leave the waterfalls.
What a way to spend my birthday. Sheer bliss!

But reality returns and so did we to the Soren Larsen and now I'm on the 4
to 8 watch:

     Wonderful weather, wind in the right direction, heave ho, most of
the sails up and such a sunset: a perfect globe of sheer brilliance sitting
on a well-defined horizon with a clear sky and a pleasant sea. 4 to 8 is
definitely the best watch: a bit of day, a bit of night, sunrise, sunset,
early morning, late evening, not too hot, not too cold, and the stars in the
sky. Magical! All was quiet on deck as everyone was dining below tonight. I
did my bow watch. The moon was getting bigger every night casting its wonder
over our voyage. Venus had dropped lower. The sky was ablaze with stars. I
pondered on the brilliant birthday I had had. Liam's voice in the darkness
disturbed my reverie: "Dale, would you go and help the Purser please?" I
vented my annoyance to my husband Alan as I passed him on deck: "I have to
go and help Carol below. I hope they don't expect me to carry meals up and
down those stairs!' (Rhubarb, rhubarb, grumble, grumble.) I headed
below........."Happy Birthday to you.........!" Cake, candles, card and
champagne, and I thought I'd got away with no one knowing. Definitely my
best birthday ever!

     Another day, another part of Paradise! The anchor's down in Big Bay
and it's hot, hot, hot. Too lazy to go ashore in this heat. Straight over
the side to cool off. That's better. No waterfall to play in, may as well
get the snorkel. Off goes Alan around the boat checking the hull below the
waterline as mariners do. Back he comes with the news: "there's a cable
running almost parallel with our own!" Goes back and checks again. "There's
an anchor on it!" The news spreads quickly and Captain Barry appears. Talk
of salvage. Fingers are being rubbed together, eyes are bright. Off goes
Barry over the side. Down deep he dives and comes back with the news: "It's
ours!" The anchor cable had looped back on itself. Oh well, it was exciting
for awhile! We settled for a late afternoon snorkel over the reef at Big Bay
when the weather had cooled a little. Well worth the effort!

     Crazy fancy dress night for our last night at anchor. Lots of punch,
or should I say rocket fuel! Lots of talking because we know the end is
nigh. Its hard to believe some of us won't meet again.

..............But some of us will. Addresses have been exchanged, promises
to visit have been made, goodbyes are said, we head ashore to Aore resort to
return to a normal life.

Around the pool, a few of us are discussing the trip. Someone says, "When is
Soren Larsen doing the Easter Island trip?" We all laugh.

......................Maybe next year??????


Dale Thompson
Newcastle, Australia

Soren Larsen will be visiting these destinations again in 2006 - see schedule