See Previous 2005 Voyage Logs

Memoirs of a former landlubber.

Voyage Crew Maggie L. from New York
- on her first Soren sailing

The Auckland to Easter Island voyage is the “cold” voyage, with the ship sailing South to the Roaring Forties to pick up the westerlies. The Roaring Forties were relatively calm for this voyage and the normally calm leg North to Easter Island turned out to be quite roaring, as we met with a squall that had us all at attention and called to action.

Yes, you do need to learn the names of all the lines on the belaying pins. Our voyage crew's first competition was to identify 3 lines blindfolded. Kiwi John and I looked at one another quizzically: “Who needs a blindfold? It's test enough with our eyes open”. We soon discovered that we often had to find lines and work sails in the dark.
Yes, you do go on duty for the entire watch, two 4-hour sessions each day. The 12 to 4 watch starts at noon and midnight every day, during which time sails are trimmed or set or handed depending on wind. When you sleep is up to you, as long as it's not on your watch. Mealtimes range from happy socializing to the complete silence of dazed fatigue. Not mentioning any names, but there are always some people who can manage to talk under any conditions.

There are many challenges and everyone seems willing to accept them. I was surprised that the Voyage Crew all came singly, meeting one another for the first time on the Søren. All ages, adventurous, intelligent, varied backgrounds. The permanent crew are all notably polite, patient and encouraging of our efforts to learn the lines, the sails and what they do. There are 3 lavatories (heads) on board and we were shown how to pump water in and out of the toilet, but the balancing act you do in the shower while the ship is rocking, is self taught. Just don't drop the soap.

Clothing. People have different methods of handling clothing on a 32 day voyage with no washing machine. What I heard... “Wear 5 layers and rotate the inner 3 layers several times”, “Wear long johns for two days and rotate the outer wear, washing only the long johns”, “Just keep doing laundry” or “Just keep wearing the same thing and don't wash it”. The ship, on a dry day or half a dry day, resembles a Chinese junk or a New York tenement, with lines of clothing flapping in the breeze.

Rain comes for long or short periods and about the only thing you can predict for the day is that it will. All manner of footwear is worn to handle the rain, spray and sloshing, from bare feet to Teva sandals to knee high deck boots.

After a week or so at sea we were 1000 nm from land and Joseph Conrad was quoted “True peace starts 1000 miles from land”.

Far from our normal world we have found in the isolation of the Southern Ocean that our ship is a floating community. Only a few of the permanent crew knew one another before sailing on the Søren. For the most part the ship has been the catalyst that brought us all together, ambassadors of good will from Australia, New Zealand, England, Shetland Islands, Canada, USA, Denmark and the Netherlands.

Lucy and Nessie claimed the space in the galley for the sake of safety and efficiency. In spite of hot ovens, open flames, rolling melons and sliding pots, produced healthy, tasty meals and desserts for all three times a day for thirty straight days. About 5 of us were seasick for the first 4 days. Ship's master, Barry, told us that no one is sick more than 4 days. Dan was happy at meal times then, because he could get 2nd and 3rd helpings of everything.

I awoke one of those nights to find my arm outstretched, searching for the “button” to turn off the “rocking machine”. At the same time, if found the rocking ship to be comforting, as a baby would, being rocked in a cradle.
The next day, the main hatch was wet from rain and spray. Kylie came out and sat next to me ready to go on watch. A big swell rocked the ship. Kylie hydroplaned off the seat, landed on her bum and slid across the deck with feet outstretched to meet the sides of the ship. All took place in 1 or 2 seconds, ZIP! BOOM! SLOSH!

On March 29th swells reached 6 to 7 meters. Extra crew were called on deck to work sails. Winds 35-40 knots, waves coming over the railing. All the permanent crew are running around hauling on lines, climbing the shrouds, going out on the bowsprit and up to the yards. They are all smiling and loving it. They must be mad! The windier and wetter it gets, the happier they become. Commented on this, Nick said “This is what we do!”. Up to now, this was the kind of weather I took shelter from. Now I have to have fun in it! Are we there yet?

As I went in the deck house to talk to Lucinda about my food allergies, a head of lettuce flew across the galley – a new meaning for “heads will roll”. On the heavy rolls, more than lettuce flies across, and the sound of clashing metal bowls, pots and utensils is frequently heard. Sarah observed the 8 diners at our meal. Those on the port side all bent forward and took a bite, when they leaned back and chewed, those on the starboard side bent forward. Synchronized eating!

Something black in the ocean was spotted by Cara, on bow watch from the roof of the deck house. “It's a seal!” yelled Big John. The seal was apparently sleeping. A lone common dolphin circled the ship and swam near the seal. An albatross was soaring overhead. “Wake up you lazy bastard!” John yelled from the ship, personifying the dolphin. Sheesh! What is this, Grand Central Station? Is there no place in the great Southern Ocean for a seal to take a nap?”. It rolled over and swam away.

Did I mention that sails are frequently set, lowered and trimmed? It's best not to try to avoid it, but just jump in and learn to do it.

Early in the morning a few hours before sunrise, the glow from the lights of Easter Island was spotted. We came steadily closer, until about 6 hours later, the anchor was dropped in the harbor. As the land became more visible and details could be seen, there was time to reflect on our journey. Our experiences were all different, yet we shared this voyage and this part of our lives with one another. We'll never be able to explain to our friends and family, who've not enjoyed such an adventure, the reality of it and what has driven us to seek it. And it is this that forms the bond between the voyagers.

Maggie.

See the whole Picture Gallery here
Read Deckhand Nick's report here

Soren Larsen will be visiting these destinations again in 2007 -