See Previous 2005 Voyage Logs

Tahiti to the Cook Islands 2006

Part One - Voyage Crew Jill Douglas recounts the start of the voyage
through the Societies.

Tuesday 11th July: We leave Point Venus in Tahiti and arrive late afternoon at Opunohu bay, Moorea. The sea is a dark lapis blue with gentle white crests of waves. In the sun, looking up into the sails of the Soren Larsen, it is unbelievably beautiful. Green, lush ground rising to dramatic jagged peaks dominates the landscape of Moorea. It is easy to see why this has been used for film locations.

Some of the crew head for land and walking in the hills. Others opt for snorkelling in the crystal clear reef at the mouth of the bay.

The weather is variable. In fact that evening a swirling wind whips up as we’re all singing and playing songs and shanties. The crew disappear and suddenly we are all on the move. The deck is cleared in seconds as we prepare to move out of the bay – in the dark – as the strong winds are dragging us too near to the shore. We move into open water and into Cook's bay. The skill of the permanent crew is very evident and we all feel that tonight we’re in safe hands.

Early afternoon on July the 12th we set sail for Huahine. The wind is up. All hands on deck. Wow! The whole ship comes alive. We all pull together and haul ropes to sea shanties as the Soren Larsen lurches into the ocean.

The watch system comes into play. Down below the wooden cabins creak violently and sway from side to side in the dark. At first it is quite alarming. By the end of the voyage it will be comforting. We all come to terms with trying to stay upright when all around is swaying and rocking. The permanent crew are such a fabulous team, making us feel important and endingly patient and full of life and fun, yet a totally professional outfit. It is a joy to watch and be a part of.

After a fabulous experience at sea during the day and over night we arrive at Huahine. Lunch on the ship is Mahi Mahi marinated in coconut and lime juice with salad. Boats zip to and fro from ship to shore so that we can explore the town and head for the bar on the water’s edge where an accumulative crowd gathers to have a jar or two…or three…to celebrate voyage crew member Iain’s 50th birthday.

Friday July 14th saw a prompt start for our short hop to Raiatea. Dolphins skirt the ship as we leave the bay. On our arrival at Opoura Bay we seem to be in the way of a local canoe race event. We all somehow work around each other, allowing us to go ashore and see the ancient Marae site, a very special place from where the early Polynesians originated.

It takes an hour to motor up the lagoon to Uturoa. People on bicycles, cars and vans continually pull up to have a look at us. The Soren Larsen is a pretty sight amongst the monstrous cruise ships roaming the islands with us and moored alongside at the quay. It is Bastille Day and as we are in French Polynesia we wander off to find a party. Some find a livelier night out than others with local dancing, drumming and entertainment. The next day we visit the little town of Uturoa. All in all a good shopping experience with an abundance of crafts, clothes and food shops. We later move up the coast to the little island of Taha’a and anchor in the gorgeous Apu Bay, a lagoon surrounded by lush vegetation, palm trees and beaches. There are ventures to the local pearl farm and vanilla plantation as well as the opportunity to swim off the ship. A Tarzan rope is hung from the course yard which is great fun and a chance for the boys to show off.

July 16th: It’s tricky to sail the ship through the tiny, narrow gap in the reef, back into open water. Bora Bora lies alluringly in the distance on the horizon. The prospect of visiting this tropical island paradise is very exciting. We are not disappointed and are treated to two days of snorkelling, shopping, beaches, a jeep safari experience and two gastronomic treats.

Sunday dinner aboard ship… out come the posh frocks, crumpled suits and ties … sort of. We have roast pork with all the trimmings, the wine flows the instruments come out and the evening wends its way with superb musical entertainment.

The following evening we experience “Bloody Mary’s”, restaurant of the rich and famous, a fine way to end our last night in the Society Islands of French Polynesia.

From now on it’s serious sailing as we all prepare for 5 days and nights aboard ship on our voyage to the Cook Islands.

Jill Douglas. Voyage crew.

Read Part One -by Jill Douglas

Read Part two -by Kate Senior

Read Part three - by Doug Saunders

See the Picture gallery from this trip

Soren Larsen will be visiting these destinations again in 2007