Tall Ship Soren Larsen Sailing adventure for all ages

Tall Ship Soren Larsen 2006 ~ South Pacific Sail Training Adventure for all ages

See Previous 2005 Voyage Logs

Tahiti to the Cook Islands 2006

Part Three - Voyage Crew Doug Saunders' Log of the time at Aitutki

at sea Tuesday 25th July
We sailed from Aitutaki last night having spent two delightful days at that idyllic island. Going ashore on Sunday from an anchorage just outside the reef was quite a different trip than on other islands we have visited. The reef is broad and deep. There is but one passage through it so the water appears to boil as the tide ebbs and flows. The passage is very narrow and not well marked either. One thinks of a medieval castle surrounded by a moat, the narrow reef passage is as daunting as a drawbridge entrance.

The harbour at Arutanga is consequently not visited by many boats. There were only three small sailing boats there accompanied by a few fishing boats and a barge which ferries containers to and from ships outside the reef.

On Sunday all commercial activity on the island ceases. There were no people around the harbour giving it an almost abandoned appearance. However once we walked a few metres to the road we were rewarded with the sight of beautiful gardens, small houses with colourful displays of plants and flowers, and well kept lawns – all very English looking and very different from French Polynesia. Many of the houses had decorated graves in the front gardens. (One would wonder what would happen with change of ownership of the property!)

The walk north took us past restaurants, car rentals and other places all closed for Sunday. There were many motor scooters on route to churches. The riders were in “Sunday best”, young men in white shirts and ties, older ladies in flowing blouses and straw hats decorated with flowers. Tranquility and a sense of timelessness prevailed. A glimpse of the Soren Larsen from between palm trees reflected a different age.

The pace changed quickly however as we stopped a taxi van who ferried us all in three trips to the “Samade Box” at the end of the island. Here for the next five hours, voyage and permanent crew sat under a tropical roof of straw on the beach not 25 foot from the water. We agreed that this beach in this location was nothing short of exquisite and the loveliest tropical setting any of us had seen. So we made merry and swam, sunbathed and thoroughly enjoyed our time there. Rooms are available and the website is www.samade@aitutaki.net.ck (this would be the spot for a romantic vacation) The taxi which we had prearranged, came and returned us to Arutanga by 5 pm.

On Monday many of us spent the day on a glass bottomed boat exploring the reef, the lagoon and the reef islands, or motus. We started at 10am and went outside the reef to see turtles. One large one was spotted on the surface and we watched him dive, following him for a while through the glass bottom, it was amazing, then back inside the lagoon to an area of giant clams and a good description of a reef life, Giant Clams, Pearl Farms etc by our guide. A snorkelling interlude, feeding colourful fish in their hundreds with bread preceded a landing on a large Motu. Our guide prepared lunch while we explored the island. Thousands of “hermit crabs” of all sizes and nesting “Red Tailed Tropic birds” were the highlights. Our lunch on board was spectacular, three kinds of cooked fish, salads, fruits, breads and various condiments were consumed by all. After lunch another motu (honeymoon island) and another swim before returning to the wharf by 4.30pm. An excellent day for only NZ$65 each.

The weather was deteriorating and the ship was now “hove too” as the anchor was not holding onto the reef. Am aboard ship. Voting about whether to stay for the night or sail overnight was inconclusive so Captain Barry declared “we’re a sailing ship, so let’s sail”.