Tall Ship Soren Larsen New Zealand Sailing adventure for all ages

So this is Soren Christmas.. - Kari's account

From December 23rd to the 28th I sailed on the tall ship Soren Larsen, near Auckland, New Zealand. Since few folks have ever done this I thought I would share my experience.

First, throw away any preconceptions you have of a "cruise". This is a 19th century inspired vessel made of oak, not steel. You'll hear every creak as it rolls along its lazy course, sometimes mistaking the sound for whispers or groans. It can be a bit eery until you understand the ship's personality.

As soon as you board you are ushered to your cabin below, and as you climb down the narrow staircase you are met with a strong odor of varnish and humidity. But as long as it's not raining the hatches are open, allowing a fresh breeze to circulate.

Our cabin had two single beds: One raised 4 feet and running along the ship's inner wall, and the other perpendicular to it (so JP's feet were underneath my bed). A small sink is available for brushing teeth, but the two main toilets and showers are shared with the rest of the passengers (which can number up to 20). Toilets are manual: you pump it out and then fill it with sea water. While this may sound laborious, it is offset by the fascination of watching the bowl empty in the opposite direction then it does in the northern hemisphere.

I knew I had to stand watch on this trip, but I was unsure going in what that meant. Ships are structured around a 4 hour 'watch period', and I was on rotation with the first mate. While on watch we might man (or woman) the helm, pull lines to adjust the sails, stand watch at the bow (which was mostly spent looking for Dolphins, who always appeared in the evening), coil rope or polish the brass. I successfully avoided scrubbing the deck and washing dishes in the galley, which I lose no sleep over.

I was surprised to find that of the 10 crew members, 6 were women. The second mate was a petite Japanese gal, and if I were a gent I'd tread lightly. She can heave the main boom with just one other man, which is impressive to see. I gave this a go myself, and brushed off the results to delayed jet lag. Once someone asked her for advice on how to pull such a heavy weight. She replied in all seriousness, "You have to pull with passion!" Perhaps, but I saw that in sailing, passion runs equally between the sexes.

You're probably wondering who goes on these trips. This specific ship was used in a popular 1978 BBC series, and was in movies like 'the French Lieutenant's woman' and 'the Count of Monte Cristo'. So many Brits come for the nostalgia. Others are avid sailing fans, and others (like me), come out of curiosity. Most of the patroms are British, Kiwi, Aussie or American, so if you go I highly recommend bringing your "English to English" translation guide. On more than one occasion I had to ask, "Is (word you're unsure of) English for (term you think it means). Smoko? This is your daily tea and biscuit break at 10 and 3:30. Pissed? Someone dipped into to beer cooler one too many times. Minced? This is strange food that British people like that I think is better left on the table.

Along with a language adjustment, you'll need a standard of living adjustment. Used to a grooming routine each morning? Laugh it off. I washed my hair each day, combed it, and there it was. No styling products, no hair spray. Shaving legs and face? Save the blade. Eyeliner? (oh come on, I'm not a Neanderthal!!! Of course I applied eye liner every morning!)

While the scenery is wonderful and the experience authentic, the trip is really made by the crew. You'll fall in love with Karsen, the cook, and you'll want to take her home with you. She makes freshly baked bread every day, and at sea this is so tasty! I'm still trying to figure out how long it will take me to lose all the weight I gained... The Captain, Matt, was a bit of a surprise. I was expecting someone gruff and hard nosed; but he was witty and laid back. One day the gaff and boom was swung way out to the right (starboard) side of the boat. I asked Matt, "How come all that weight doesn't cause the boat to tip over?" He replied, "I don't know, I often wonder that meself." (Oh, Matt is from Shetland. Good luck trying to decipher some of the words he uses.)

The First mate, Nick, was also laid back, but a bit more serious since he was responsible for everything that went on at deck. You'll appreciate how he handles all the gaffs made by the 'voyage crew' (tourists). I, for example, showed up for my first watch with beer in hand. I volunteered to take the helm, and said, "Oh, I suppose you aren't supposed to drink and steer." "I'm glad you know that," he said. "But since you are on vacation go ahead and finish it." Hehe.

The Second mate, Maho, I mentioned above. It's worth the cost of sailing just to see her pull those heavy lines. She's very knowledgeable, and you can learn a lot from her should you ask. I also loved the engineer, Jarred, who is quite funny. If you forget to bring a few raunchy jokes you can ask him for one. The deck hands were also wonderful, and these are the folks who will help you find your footing when you are trying to climb down from the forecastle; so be nice to them.

I really recommend this trip (or one like it). Seeing the stars at night from the sea will suck the air right out of your lungs. The southern cross- AMAZING. Fresh air? Yes, it's still available! Simplistic, wholesome fun? Well, for wholesomeness you might want to check out Disney Land.

Kari and Matt

But for simplistic, this is it. I can't recommend it enough.

Voyage Crew Kari T., California, USA

See the full Picture Gallery HERE