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Here's Marsha's second account of Soren Larsen's cruise northwards to the outer Cooks
"Everyone was really looking forward to our time in Suwarrow. It definitely did not disappoint. Everyone scrambled for the best view as we motored through the pass. The current was really quite strong and our engine gave it’s all to get us through the shallow, brilliant blue water as birds swooped and spun their way through our maze of lines and rigging.
Captain Jim and some of the voyage crew were the first ashore. Jim went to speak with the Islands caretaker James. Suwarrow is a National Park and bird sanctuary and the Cook Islands employs someone to look after the place for 6 months of the year. There is no radio or internet, no connection with the outside world except through the ships and yachts that pass through the lagoons crystal clear waters. There were two yachts at anchor when we arrived. Both American. One was a couple from Tacoma, Washington and the other was a young man who is living out his dream and sailing solo.
That evening we had a BBQ on the beach with James and John (the two men living on the island) hammocks were set up and guitars and fiddles were brought out. Laughter I’m sure was heard for miles around… if anyone was there to hear it. Most of the voyage and permanent crew stayed ashore for the night setting up hammocks and tents out of reach of those pesky coconut crabs.
The following day saw everyone exploring the islands treasures. The walk round the island was wonderful with nesting birds and colourful crabs everywhere. In the water the fish were a plenty which may be why there are also plenty of sharks. Most of us enjoyed swimming with the sharks and some stayed safely onshore. But when the heat of the day makes the water look so inviting you can’t help but cool off… and then run away squealing when a tiny baby foot long shark swims by. James and John were very talkative and showed us around the shelter they call home. It’s covered in flags and banners from boats from all over the world who have stopped by this tiny gem in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
While people dozed on the beach in the afternoon sun back on board the crew were busy with maintenance and bending on different sails for the lighter trade winds we hope to sail in. After a yummy dinner in the Saloon everyone chatted and laughed on deck well into the night.
The next morning saw us off by 11am. Some of us climbed aloft for a brilliant view of the reef, island and jewel coloured waters. Pictures just don’t do it justice…
The wind and swell had picked up a bit and we flew along at a steady 7 knots. We’re now currently heading for Apia, Samoa and should be there mid afternoon on Thursday June 23rd. A little bit later than planned but how could we pass up the chance to go to Palmerston and Suwarrow?
Till next time Fair Winds my friends
Till next time
Fair Winds my friends
Marsha, Purser "
See this voyage Picture Gallery here