Sailing Holidays | South Pacific Sailing Adventure

Voyage Log V335 Tonga and Fiji # part 3

July 2011 - on passage from Northern Tonga towards Fiji

Fiji Map After spending a few days in Levuka, (waiting for the weather to calm down a bit) we were on our way again. This time to the island of Beqa (sort of pronounced Beng-ga) where we would visit the village of Lalati. The Captains gift of Kava root was accepted by the chief and we were welcomed ashore. The village is nestled into the lush hillside and children run wild. There are only about 80 people in the village at the moment although some of the older kids are working and going to school on the main island.

The village owns the land and beaches surrounding the village. Including the land which now houses a small high end resort just down the bay from them. Respect is of the utmost importance in the villages. No hats or sunglasses should be worn as it’s rude to cover your eyes. All the women must have their shoulders covered and where a skirt or a lava lava (sarong, pareau). Although everyone is extremely welcoming and friendly, it’s still polite to ask to enter the village or surrounding areas and to ask if taking pictures is alright. The answer is almost always yes when it comes to pictures. The kids really love digital cameras and seeing the pictures on the screen after they pose over and over again.

The absolute highlight of the visit was the intense rugby game played that afternoon. The teams were fairly even with villagers and crew split up on both teams. The terrain was full of muddy pot holes and minus a few sore muscles there were no major injuries. The star of the game was the 2nd Mate Maho. She stole the show with her squealing and her hilarious technique.

Capt Jaap on the break..

Most of the village looked on while setting up a small market. After more than three hours of playing the match finally ended as the ding dong sound of kava being crushed could be heard echoing off the mountainsides. Unfortunately because it was so funny to watch no one was actually keeping score… so we’ll just say that everyone was a winner.

After a good meal on board (and a few ‘happy birthday’ songs for Gundi) we all headed back ashore for a ‘Sevu sevu’ or kava ceremony. The chief was in attendance and we all sat cross legged in a circle in the chiefs home. It’s considered rude to point your feet at anyone so always sit cross legged or with your feet tucked under you. Clap once to accept a bowl of kava. Then down it all in one; following with three claps after passing the empty bowl back. In between rounds there was dancing, music and much chatter. Everyone was presented with a lovely grass/flower necklace. It’s the best most of us had smelled in days! Everyone really enjoyed the experience and found that the Kava here is stronger than the bowls we had in Tonga.

An_innocent_looking_jandal_thief The following day was our turn to return the favour. The ship was inundated with villagers of all ages. Kids could be found all over the place with the elders chasing after them to keep them in line. Then the captain showed them the ships horn and bell… it was all over after that. After many hyper children were ushered off the ship; quiet fell over the bay again. Everyone stayed on board for the evening and socialized with one another telling tales of their adventures throughout the day. Some had drinks at the resort. Some climbed the mountain and went pig hunting. Some took the day to relax and wash some clothes and others took the small boat on a tour up the bay.
The following morning we heaved anchor and waved goodbye to the entire village who had lined the shore singing hymns and waving palm fronds. A really beautiful and touching farewell.

We motored just outside the bay to a tiny island with some fantastic snorkelling. Beautiful corals covered in fish sparkled in the mid-day sun. Some people made it to the island and walked around the tiny spit of land. A small path through the jungle made for a great adventure for James, Françoise and Larry. Highlights were a 4 foot shark (12 foot depending on who you talk to), a sting ray, an octopus, more types of fish than you can count and a spider conch shell.

Right now we are sailing into the night around the main island in Fiji heading towards Lautoka; our final destination. All in all our Fijian experience has been far more amazing than anyone ever expected. We only have a few more days till 14 of the 16 voyage crew leave us (Françoise and Louisa are staying on with us) and we get ready to receive another group ready for the adventure of a lifetime. But who knows what tomorrow will bring…

Till next time… Fair Winds my friends.

Marsha Book, Purser

Read V335 Part 1 & 2 HERE

Read V335 Part 4 HERE