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V337 Vanuatu Banks Islands Voyage Log 2

Ureparapara - inside the volcano, northern Banks Islands, Vanuatu

As we went ashore in Ureparapara, Liz said something that struck me. She said ‘You know every time we come ashore it’s like stepping into a National Geographic Magazine.” And it’s true. Each time we slip into the water it’s like a nature documentary (I swear I can hear David Attenborough narrating) and each time we enter a village it’s like an untouched land, each totally different from the last.

Ureparapara Part 1 -

The anchorage in Ureparapara is possibly the coolest we‘ve been to. It’s inside the crater of a volcano. On every side we’re surrounded by steep, black cliffs covered in a thick carpet of green. The crater abruptly drops into the sea at one side with a small opening for us to sail through. The sandy beaches here are mostly black lava worn down over years and years covered with a thin layer of that picturesque white sand created from coral.

We arrived on Saturday night and as we anchored, skilfully hollowed out trees turned into out-rigger canoes and kayaks of sorts surrounded the ship. Full of men and small boys and lots of bananas. The chief came out to the ship and organised events for us. He said that even though the following day was Sunday, the people were so happy to see the ship again they would put aside their day of rest to welcome us and show us their home. Everyone was invited to church in the morning.

After 8 am church (the singing was amazing) some people undertook the climb to the rim of the volcano. About 750 meters straight up with a rough trail of tough climbing got them a view that took their breath away… or what ever breath they had left anyways. Rain had descended on us a few days back and we just couldn’t seem to shake it. Clouds lined the rim and as they crept closer, erasing the view from the group on top, the rain started to fall. Sarah decided to take the quick way down with some eager 5 year olds and a muddy track. The others took their time and stuck with the guide.

Other people decided to make the trek to the bat cave. An hour hike and a hour back led them up a different part of the crater. They all came back saying the view was incredible even though the “leisurely walk” they were told they were going on was more of a climb of about 250 meters. The cave had some small and some very very large bats inside. They also did not escape the rain and came back for lunch a little muddy and tired out.

After lunch almost every single person on board came ashore for the days main events. Everyone toured the village and made friends with the kids. There were a LOT of children here and a lot of babies. We thought we were going to have to intervene when BJ fell in love with a 9 month old. And later that evening Nik looked about ready to steal a 3 month old baby girl. Stickers and bracelets were given out in abundance and Tully took her time in crafting some origami cranes under the watchful eye of about 30 kids.

We were lead along the black sand beach and across a small river to a large sandy space. We were left there to enjoy the view and chatter amongst ourselves. Soon we heard drums coming from the bush. Down the beach there emerged a group of men adorned in flowers and grass skirts. They wore the most wonderful sounding shell anklets that clattered when they danced. The dance and song was a story about men in the village who all fell in love with the same girl. She made them dance and dance to help her decide. In the end she couldn’t decide so they danced till the end of time. They danced back down the beach and away into the forest. The drums stopped

Then the drums started again. This time a single drummer walked towards us. Drumming slowly at first then faster and faster. Then a man came running down the beach with a wonderful head dress on. It was a spotted ray. He ran then stopped short. Shuffled then leapt over and over again. After crouching near the drummer more and more men in different head dresses did the same thing. There were colourful reef fish, a marlin leaping from the water to devour another fish, a shark with it’s head cut off, a dolphin and the most impressive was a mermaid balancing perfectly on one mans head. Once they were all in place the drummer started drumming fiercely. Faster and faster they circled hooting and hollering. It was a wonderful sight. The bits of sun coming through the clouds, shining on the dramatic steep hills across the water from us. Everyone was really impressed.

The rest of this days events you can find in Part 2...
Fair Winds!

Marsha Book, Purser

++

V337 Ureparapara Part 2

After the dance on the black sand beach was done and the dancers danced off into the bush, we were ushered off up a path through the trees and village, across a babbling brook to a small pond where women in red greeted us. It was time for the much anticipated water music. I can try to describe it but it won’t do any good. Everyone’s videos just don’t do it justice either. They slap, flick and scoop the water in such a way that it sounds like drums and the most wonderful music. Two women, staying high and dry, sang on rocks above them. Water flew everywhere. The wonderful contrast of colours made it all the more wonderful. The lush green vegetation, the bright red clothing, the blue water and white splashes made by human hands will stick in our minds forever. This is truly a dying art and this is one of the only places this is done now. Tully was convinced that there was a secret drummer in the forest somewhere. There wasn’t.

In between songs they erupted in laughter as they wiped the water from their eyes. The babbling brook seemed to laugh with them and then fell silent again as they started manipulating the water again and again. It was over far too soon. We could have watched and listened to the music all day long. As we walked away, totally in awe, we all talked about practicing and making our own water music. George and Darren informed us that many have tried… and all have failed.

Then we broke off into groups and some stayed by the beach and played with kids. Others took out the kayaks and canoes for a paddle and some just found a shady spot and took a nap. The remaining group were lead to another small village across another stream. Fresh water is in great abundance here and they have an impressive system linking almost every hut and home with a tap. We were being led to a garden. A most striking garden full of black palm carvings. There was also a tame dove there which we were encouraged to pet. Giant fierce looking faces loomed down on us and fish and dolphins leapt from the soil as an elderly man led us around explaining the meaning and story behind each carving. There were colourful flowers absolutely everywhere and with the misty hills in the background it was quite peaceful and relaxing. They are very proud of their garden and really enjoyed being able to share it with us.

We caught glimpses of the ship through the palm trees and volcanic rocks as we made our way back to the beach. For the rest of the afternoon we played tag with the kids and had paper airplane flying contests.

As the natural light faded, the newly fixed generator (thanks Geoff!!) powered a few bulbs under an open hut at the edge of the beach. As the string band started playing we made our way over for the feast. Chief and Captain exchanged thank-yous and prayers and then the food came out. There was an abundance of fish, rice and a lobster soup! There were three different varieties of lap-lap, a sticky, gooey, gelatine like substance and depending on what it’s flavoured with it can be really tasty.

After bowls of strong kava and much food it was time to dance it all off. Darren and George got the party started and soon the entire crew was up. It took a bit of convincing to get the kids and some of the ladies up but not long after we started most people were up “getting down”.
We danced till the generator ran out of fuel then we made our way through the dark to the waters edge. While waiting for the boat back to the ship I think hundreds of handshakes and hugs were exchanged.

The following morning some goods from the galley were exchanged for coconuts, bananas, onions and other veggies. Ureparapara only gets one supply boat a year so simple things like salt and bars of soap are in high demand. We gave what we could along with a massive amount of 2nd hand clothes. No words were needed to say thanks after seeing the grateful faces receiving the goodies.

After another goodbye we reluctantly left Ureparapara in search of our next adventure.
I think a shower in a waterfall is in order…
But till next time, Fair Winds my Friends.

Marsha Book, Purser.

See the Picture Gallery from this voyage here