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CAPTAIN'S LOG - tales of the 1999 voyage through the South Pacific Enjoy these informal accounts of our previous voyages are written by the captain and crew . Note : for up to date reports from the ship on her 2000 voyage click here
LOG ENTRY: Bay of Islands, New Zealand 26.10.99 by Captain Jim Cottier The sighs of relief were loud and long when the weather finally settled to normal trades while the ship was in Noumea. On this occasion the Customs adamantly refused permission for a stop at the Isle des Pines en route to New Zealand, so a day and night at Baie du Prony before clearing Customs had to suffice. We set sail in Petite Rade and cleared the sea reef via Dumbea Pass under almost full sail and hard on the light SE breeze with old hands Brian and Barry keeping her finely "full and bye". The watches were a bit light and one voyage crew suffering from some form of influenza and bronchitis. However, conditions were very easy and sail handling consisted of freshening the nips now and again, checking for chafe, and handing and resetting the t’gallant and upper stays’l each night watch just for practice. As usual interesting meals marked the progress of each day, but numbers around the table steadily diminished as the ‘bug’, brought aboard in Noumea took its toll. Before anchoring at Norfolk Island 8 or 9 had succumbed. Norfolk was a treat. There was something for everybody; historical ruins, museums, cheap (very cheap) cars for hire, walks, shops, telephones, birds (many peculiar to Norfolk island) and most notably, very very friendly, helpful people. On the second day we re anchored close to a merchant ship discharging 400 tons of assorted cargo. We were able to witness at close quarters, the islanders handling everything from cars to timber into their 24 foot boats with seeming nonchalance despite an awkward 1 ½ meter swell. A large proportion of the locals have Pitcairn forbears so the expert boat handling is hardly surprising. During our stay the breeze backed to North of East (I had been predicting this to happen each day since Noumea) and the passage to NZ was made in perfect conditions. We tucked a reef in the main to make things easier, for still the illness reduced watches but Soren still made days runs of over 175 miles. We made the Bay of Islands flying a full suit of sails and the pleasure of the excellent passage was topped off by the best Bottle Nosed Dolphin display we’ve seen for years. I swear one of them leapt 20 feet! A fine finale to another interesting Pacific season. Jim Cottier ++ LOG ENTRY: Noumea, New Caledonia 9.10.99 DIARY OF A PURSER IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC Written by Kate Ryan - Ship's Purser It is Friday night and I am in the saloon watching David (voyage crew) take a camera to bits. There are tiny screws and components scattered everywhere. David and Eva Shrewsbury are the most gorgeous British couple I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. Eva is like a mum to the cooks, fussing around trying to help all the time. David is such a gentle spirit with a winning smile who has been very calming to have around!! Brian Huntley (another UK Voyage Crew) has constantly been the life of every party on board so far and his tales of mummy short arms and daddy long legs have left us all giggling for dear life. Anyway, as you will all be aware each voyage crew has something very special to offer the Soren in her travels and I am bewildered that as Ship's Purser, I actually have a few spare moments to babble on about a few to you guys back home!! The trip from Port Villa to Noumea was wild!! I had a fantastic time… probably the best and longest rollercoaster ride I have been on in a long time now. I have visions of Steve in the galley heating up cold spaghetti bolognaise with music blaring, putting on his best French accent, he served us ‘slop’ in a bowl with gale force winds and 6 metre swells!! It was one of those ‘you had to be there’ moments. Then there was half the crew pumping away on the bilge pump... In order to save poor David and Eva another flood in their cabin four of us were pumping away when a rather large wave managed to send us all sprawling on hands and knees to starboard!! The look of relief on all faces as we arrived into Noumea harbour was one to be recorded!! As with any theory of chaos – the really bad must be balanced with the really good and so the very next morning the sun was shining and not a cloud was in the sky. The last few days we were blessed with perfect weather, sea snakes, snorkeling, huge schools of tuna, white sand beaches, green flashes during the sunsets and evenings on deck drinking and laughing. The final night consisted of a very successful talent night and considering the most prominent thing during the whole voyage was weather, we made this our fancy dress theme! We had passing showers, warm fronts (a hot water bottle), cold fronts (ice packs), large swells (balloons down Eric’s trousers), weather balloons and many more. David was particularly hilarious as he came as a ‘green flash’. He wore an overcoat, and flashed all passerbys with a green spotted body and green Y-fronts! One can only marvel at the liberating transformation that a 10 day voyage on the Søren Larsen can give a previously sensible and grown up man! The ship is now busy with the 4 day turnaround in Noumea before new Voyage Crew arrive and we set sail for Norfolk Island and New Zealand. Sadly the last voyage of our 1999 South Pacific Season. As Purser I'd better sign off here and go and organise the laundry, collect money from the bank and prepare all the cabins. A busy time!!!
LOG ENTRY : Port
Vila, Vanuatu 25.9.99 Captain Tony Davies: The ship is lying at anchor in port Vila harbour here in Vanuatu after an 8 days layover here. This gap between our voyages around the islands has allowed us get some general maintenance done on the ship and has given the crew 2-3 day off ashore. It's a well earned break for them as our sailing schedule and demanding seamanship around the islands does make for a lot of early starts, full days and late anchor watches. The last few weeks of sailing have been quite spectacular with so many marvellous destinations visited. Our journey took us west from Fiji to the Vanuatu, formerly the New Hebrides. The Voyage Crew enjoyed the experience of open ocean sailing in the trades on the four day passage between the Yassawa islands, of west Fiji and our initial point of arrival at Port Vila. Our exploration of this remote island country started with a cruise of the northern Banks Islands. Setting out from our stopover port of Luganville on Santo we sailed up the east coast of the island, calling at Port Orly on the north-east tip. The passage from there to the start of the Banks Islands is not far but made a leisurely day's sail of it. Named after Sir Joseph Banks by Captain Cook on his second voyage in 'Resolution', the islands are indeed a botanist's delight. Tourism in Vanuatu is pretty much limited to Port Vila and the island of Efate and to a lesser extent to Santo in the north. Once we were away from these centres we saw what I think is the true nature of the country, an untouched, jungled and ruggedly beautiful place. At each village we called at I formally requested permission of the local chief the land our crew at his village. This was never refused and indeed our welcome was always so warm and genuinely hospitable that this became one of the joys of the trip for many. At places where we had visited on voyages past we were given a special welcome. Uraparapara in the far north of the group comprises of the cone of an extinct volcano, the side of which was blown out in a massive eruption creating a deep steep sided natural 'harbour' some 2 miles long. At the village at the end Chief Nickelson greeted us saying 'he hadn't expected to see us this year' but again the welcome was genuine and the village was keen to replay the Soren Larsen soccer match! Despite some handy players amongst our Voyage Crew we lost against the highly fit ni-Vanuatu, but only by a couple of goals this time! Some voyage crew climbed the steep and muddy track high above the anchorage to the crater's peak. As they stood gasping at their destination someone mentioned it was a shame that the dense bush didn't allow a view down to the ship - and the village guides, ever keen to oblige, jumped up and promptly macheted down a gap in the canopy before anyone could stop them. Some hours later this same gap on the jungle ridge could be decerned from the foredeck! Those of an environmentally sensitive nature shouldn't be too concerned and the lush bush will have regrown to twice the size by the time they read this. We called at the torrenting waterfalls one the west side of Vanua Leva and at a village saw amazing custom dancing. Custom ritual and dancing and chant is an important part of the cultural fabric of the peoples here and we felt privileged to witness it. I chose a course down the west side on Santo back to Luganville which afforded us the chance to see the village of Wessei with its rare and traditional pottery. A four day turn around on Santo and then we headed east and south of the second half of our Vanuatu Discovery. At Maewo Chief Nelson was delighted to see us again. Four years ago on my first visit here he had told me of his plans for his village of Asanvari, with expansion of the building and plans of a place for visitors by yacht to stay. I was pleased to see the progress the work was making and as before we gave him some text books and materials for the local school that we had brought from New Zealand. In 1995 one of our crew, Ian, had commissioned an out rigger canoe which Chief Nelson himself had built and I was pleased to report, and Nelson was amused to hear, that this traditional canoe was being paddled in the inlets and creeks of west Auckland. At Pentecost we visited the land diving village of bungee jumping fame and at Ambrym took the arduous but rewarding trek through the rain forest to the active volcano crater there. Each anchorage, each village, each ni-Vanuatu friend deserves a page each in this log but time and space don't allow for now. This past week at Vila we have taken the chance to send the main topmast down to the deck for our carpenter to scarf in a some repairs, the crew are chipping and painting around the deck, in the engine room the engineer and I have been having fun with the watermaker/ desalinator pluming! But on Monday (27th Sept) new Voyage Crew arrive and we commence another voyage: west by south to New Caledonie and many lovely islands surrounding her coast. + + LOG ENTRY: Loutoka , Fiji 6th August 1999 Ian Hutchinson, crew I was lucky enough to escape the Auckland office to join the crew for this voyage and had a marvellous time! We had a wonderfully varied voyage crew. Good to see Barry, Peter, Victoria, Seru, Tom, Chris and Bill join us again. Others were first time voyagers with Soren Larsen: Alex & Becs had planned their honeymoon and wedding around this trip 2 years in advance. Dave had been reading about tallships for 40 years , Alun was following in his son’s footsteps’s (Cookie VC’94), Merrill and Norma had travelled widely but never by tallship, Mary had sailed on the Malcomn Miller, Alan was a bone fide Chelsea Pensioner, Annie’s greatest ambition was to get to the t’gallant, George and Vince were after a relaxing break, Kat was on a year’s world tour, Tree was going to squeeze the max out of every second of her 3 weeks hols. Kerry, like Alun, was on double voyage from Auckland. Ages ranged from 10 years to 70-something and everyone was soon into the watch rota. This trip took us north through Tonga and each night we anchored at different islands in Haa’pai and Vava'u. At Nomuka and Uoleva, classically beautiful atolls, deserted white beaches and palm fringed headlands made a perfect anchorage and we had it to ourselves. Søren's inflatable boat took everyone ashore to explore 'the desert island' or snorkelling on the coral. As the golden late afternoon sun set over the palms we weighed anchor and set course to Nieafu, the main town at Vava’u. This is not a large port to explore; I found the wonderful rambling old post office by the huge fig tree and sent a few post cards , wandered through the narrow main street perusing the basket and tapa cloth handicraft shops, and gravitated to the famous Bounty Bar – and found that nearly all their clientele had originated from the Søren Larsen. Vava’u is large network of atolls and reefs offering dozens of potential destinations. This year we saw only brief glimpses of Vavau’s whale population, which was a pity, but we did find Swallow’s Cave and the underwater entrance to Mariner’s Cave, which tests the nerve of even a competent snorkeler. We had fair winds to start the short ocean passage west from Vava'u towards Fiji and were making good time before the breeze died away around the Lau Group and we had to resort to motorsailing into Overlau. Everyone enjoyed a day ashore at this charming old Fijian capital before we set off to Astrolabe Reef and the Kandavu group and Beqa and Musket Cove and finally Loutoka. Highlights were different depending on who you asked:- the Tongan feast and night of the Polynesian singing at John’s beach in Vava'u, the deserted beaches of Ha’apai, sailing under the full moon from Vava'u, our bizarre kava night at the village in Kandavu, the hilarious talent night, or the coral at Ugagu island reef . For some it was just the unique thrill of being at the helm of Søren Larsen in the trade winds. Happy sailing indeed
++ LOG ENTRY Tonga - Capital city - Nukalofa 17.7.99 Captain Tony Davies writes: The ship finally completed her 3 month masts refit in Auckland at the start of July and we were just about ready for our full compliment of Voyage Crew on 2 July. Strong northerlies obliged us to wait in the lee of Waiheke island in the Hauraki Gulf until the gale had passed. No one was too upset at this delay and some were relieved to wait until the seas and wind were more favourable. The ship sailed at an average of 5.3 knots up towards the Kermadec Islands and conditions were ideal when we came to land at the fascinating and remote Raoul Island - 600 miles from the North Island coast and staffed by Dept of Conservation workers and scientists. They were happy to see us - we brought their mail! Voyage Crew got ashore and spent the day on this untouched volcanic peak. From Raoul we continued north and east to Tonga. The winds strengthened from a favourable quarter and we had a great sail into Tongatapu for the last 2-3 days of the passage. Averaging 9.5 knots Soren Larsen relished the tradewind sailing, flexing the muscles and working in the new shrouds and rig. As it happens very little take up was required in the new standing rig. The crew and Voyage crew were excited to see their first atoll, first palm tree, first dolphin and then whale... Our swift passage allowed us a couple of days cruising the lagoons near Nukualofa. Now on a 4 day turnaround we await our new voyage crew and prepare to sail north through the lovely Tongan islands to Vav'au and on to Fiji. |
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| If you are interested in voyages through the South Pacific we republish Captain Cottier's account of Soren Larsen's 1998 voyage to these islands.... |
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The ship is on a six month South Pacific voyage from Auckland via Tonga, Fiji , Vanuatu, New Caledonia, Sydney to Auckland. Vessel at anchor, Port of Luganville, Espiritu Santo, northern Vanuatu, South Pacific latitude 15.30 south longitude 167.10 east "It's been an excellent year for a Square Rigger in the South Pacific. It began with a fabulous run from Auckland to Tonga in late May '98 : a blue water passage of ten and a half days of which two were spent at Raoul Island. No rip-roaring gale force winds and high rolling sea but steady force four and five with steady barometer and only the odd shower. The gaff tops'l has been well aired this year and I think every set of voyage crew have had to deal with the "quality" seamanship required to handle it. Certainly this year's crew know how to put a stow on it and our new Mate, Ben, just loves the sail. The strong trades have given us some tough passage at times. That open stretch of water between Tongatapu and Nomuka comes to mind. But we've had it worse. I recall blowing out the old terylene mainsail over that stretch of water a few years ago! We've had a few seasick souls too, (one American swearing to sue the company that makes seasick patches!) but the quiet anchorages, gorgeous sunsets and the odd rum and coke always dispelled the awful memories. We had two feasts at John's place this year – Henukuaea Beach – and both were good. It's the Tongan family atmosphere, the toddlers joining in with big sister, and the absolutely loaded table that you remember. There's a simplicity and lack of sophistication that is touching and warming, like the grace before the meal, proudly yet simply spoken by John's wife. Of course, there's kava afterwards and since it was the first sampling of many there were some strange 'hangovers', if that's the word! The Vava'u group surely has to be the jewel in the Tongan crown. Just sailing amongst the liberal scatter of islands set in the bluest sea is a treat. Each green capped islet has it's own coral garden and dazzling white beach – any one of them a film set for Crusoe! We tacked one whole afternoon among reefs and islets with the fresh Trade whitening the reef edges and filling every last sail we could spread. Soren just loved it, setting to each new course without the least hesitation while her crew scurried about hauling and shouting, lapping up rum and salt air and perhaps dreaming a bit about life on a tropic isle! The passage to Fiji was all too short for many – the fair trade wind had us running off the miles in great style. We hove to long enough for a wild dinghy ride across the lagoon to the wreck of the "Matthew Flinders" on Na Vatu reef and sailed into Levuka roadstead after just three days at sea. Levuka never fails to charm. It's a good arrival point too, friendly officials, quaint buildings, an air of faded history and a fine mountainous backdrop. You can easily dislike Suva even though it too has a dramatic setting, and Lautoka is just "commercial", but everyone likes Levuka. Long may it remain quaint and sleepy. We called in at Musket Cove this year too after spending the best part of a week between Great Astrolabe Reef and Beqa. It was good to meet up with Dick Smiths again. He still owns and runs the resort. His first remark after greetings and handshakes, "have you got that character Andy aboard? Now he's a memorable bloke!!!" We remained over a day, lying amongst the coral with two anchors down and were treated to a rare display of runaway bush blaze on a neighboring island. The spectacle was a cross between a horror movie and a fireworks display as the flames engulfed whole trees in seconds and the fire raced dancing and roaring up the ridges. The Yasawa Islands were tinder dry too, but the welcome at Wayasewa was as friendly as ever. Our 'sevu sevu' of Tongan kava was happily accepted and the subsequent dancing and singing was of a high standard. The sea passage to Vanuatu was again swift and easy and the clearance formalities in Port Vila very smooth and brief. We anchored at 1815 on a Friday and the voyage crew were going ashore at 1930! That must constitute a record! Port Vila was bustling, partly because "Fair Princess" was in port flooding the market and main street with vatu wielding tourists. The traffic problems were reminiscent of a first world country! Nevertheless Port Vila was pleasant as always and the French style pavement cafes are magnetic vases at convenient intervals. Vila also has the best postcards in the Pacific, East of Noumea. Vanuatu remains a delight for the seafaring visitor with a multitude of anchorages scattered throughout the long chain of islands. There are sea reefs with excellent snorkeling, high islands and low, and people who smile easily whether dressed in the missionary-induced Mother Hubbard or just a traditional penis sheath namba. (It's hard to look at the smile though in the latter case!). In Vanuatu there are always surprises too. We arrived at a tiny village at Gaua in the Banks Islands to discover that it was St Bartholomew's Day! For the locals it was cause for celebration in the form of custom dancing and we arrived plumb in the middle of it. At Waterfall Bay on Vanua Lava it was a cornucopia of crayfish and prawns which cooks Annette and Bernadette turned promptly into an excellent lunch. Here we observed an almost total eclipse of the sun one magic afternoon as we slid towards an anchorage. All gathered on the aft deck to witness the event. Given the remoteness of our location, it moved everybody. We circumnavigated Espiritu Santo again this year, visiting Palikeilo Bay and Port Alvy on the east coast on the way north, and Wusi and Lisbern Anchorage on the way back. We bought the unique Lapita pottery at Wusi again but the village seemed depressed and dirty and the people a bit dispirited. Perhaps it was the weather – very hot and very dry. Nice canoes though and very different from those in the Banks Islands. Much thinner and higher in the sides at Wusi. Perhaps it reflects the type of tree they use. Right now we are back in Santo at Luganville lying at anchor off the Bougainville Resort, and awaiting our new voyage crew. The permanent crew are rather tired at this stage in the Pacific voyage but they have served the ship well as evidenced by the very positive feedback from voyage crew. Terri, Robin and Mark are bubbling along on nitrogen infused blood from several dives on "President Coolidge". Several others will be doing dive courses during the Vila layover after this passage. The old lady herself! Well she is enjoying her Pacific voyaging better than ever. She loves the strong Trades and I'm sure she feels good about having the mainmast rig all reset taut and Bristol fashion with bright new blacked-down shrouds, fresh baggywrinkle everywhere and well slushed-down mast. I think she's heard about the possibility of a new fore lowermast too and she likes that idea! She has enjoyed a most excellent selection of voyage crew this year too and particularly those from the USA, Paul Schultz and Bill Nelson come to mind immediately as new avid Soren Larsen fans from North America. They had a ball! It's great to have such people aboard. We've had a good selection of folk returning for another voyage too (and yet another and another …!!), like Bonny and June Boniface, Vera Taylor, Natasha Calow, Jenny Loring , Trevor Hancock and Phil Francis. It's so good to see these wonderful folk returning – you are an inspiration. For me two of the most memorable voyage crew were Anders and Anders from Finland and Sweden. Quiet, Scandinavian sailors, discerning and knowledgeable and they just loved Soren and the atmosphere on board. Sometimes they couldn't find words to express their pleasure in the voyage but their eyes did. In Port Vila I shall hand over to Søren Larsen's other relief skipper – Captain
Marti Woods. While I shall return to my home in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, he shall
take the ship on to more adventures in Tanna , New Caledonia. Lord Howe and Sydney before
returning to her home port, Auckland in November 98." |
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