NEW
Voyage Crew Memories hereGalapagos
Islands, 26th February 2001
The ship has moved around to Baltra and is departing from there tonight to set
sail for Easter island. The Voyage Crew enjoyed their boat tour of the islands and
the permanent crew got a day or two off on Santa Cruz. All have said what an incredible
place is.
Voyage Crew Kirsten Bowdich has been keeping an excellent log of the
voyage - this is an exatract of her account of their Galapagos tour aboard the Aida Maria:
" 18th Feb........ Our first stop was North Seymour
where we saw nesting colonies of frigate birds and blue-footed boobys. It's amazing
how unafraid the animals are. They really let us get quite close. Lots of sea
lions everywhere. We set off at like 4am for our anchor for today. It was a
bit alarming when the anchor started going up at that hour, and then it seemed I had
no sooner gotten back to sleep, than the stupid thing woke me up going back down. I
walked up on deck at close to dawn, and it was beautiful with all these little volcanic
islands floating around on the sea. Our first stop today was China Hat, which looks
just like one. Once again, tons of
sea lions, including babies, frolicking in the water and napping in the bushes. It's
quite something to snorkel with sea lions (Well, they weren't snorkeling, but we were)
We had to stop though when Dad showed up. The males are considerably more
aggressive than the females and he didn't seem too inclined to frolic with us so we moved
on to look at marine iguanas instead. After lunch and our scheduled nap, we set out
for Bartolome Island where we trudged up 400 steps to the top of a volcano that provides
and beautiful panoramic view of the area. It's apparently the most photographed view
of the Galapagos. The area is all volcanic of course, and the landscape is really
neat with all the accompanying formations and flows. It's beautiful in a stark sort
of way. On the way over we saw some penguins (yes, there is a
variety that lives here) and when we were snorkeling one swam right underneath us.
During the snorkeling part of the day I also saw some rays, a white tipped shark (which
thankfully seemed uninterested in me) and a sea cucumber along with the requisite tropical
fish. After climbing down from the lookout, we walked through an isthmus of
mangroves to the other bay where we saw turtles floating off shore and a black tip shark
on patrol.
22-Feb-01: Galapagos Still
We spent the morning on Tues wandering around
James Bay. it was low tide and the tide pools were teeming with life. Lots of
crabs, iguanas, & seal lions of course. I saw one crab with a lucky catch of a
small squid that it was dragging along behind it. There was a pool
full of baby hermit crabs tooling around in their tiny shells. In one area was a
sort of grotto/blowhole place that had a group of fur seals thoroughly enjoying
themselves, floating on their sides, flippers in air, or doing summersaults. They
are more playful than the regular sea lions. Afterwards was the requisite snorkeling
while the boat crew had a rousing soccer game with the crew of one of the other boats.
A while after we left for Rabida Island, we were run down by the other boat that
was carrying the rest of our group. It seems they
were trying to return Bill, who was left behind on the beach. Guess our guide forgot
to take a head count before we pulled anchor. Needless to say, after that our guide
always took a head count and Bill was always the first one we looked for.
I was feeling reclusive so passed on the Rabida
trip in the afternoon. It seems I missed out on swimming with sea lions. It
figures. I was reading a good book though. Tues night we headed to Porta
Ayora.
We started off Wed, boarding a bus for the
highlands of Sta Cruz - The island with the main town of Porta Ayora - We saw what were
essentially collapsed lava bubbles. We're not talking little things here.
These guys were several hundred feet deep. After oohing and ahhing a bunch of plant
life, we moved into a town where we oohed and ahhed a bunch of food type plant life -
Banana trees, papayas, oranges, that sort of thing. We made a couple stops to take
important pictures of cemeteries and turtle crossings and then back for our lunch and nap.
After our siesta, we all trudged up to the Darwin Center to learn about how Man is
trashing/has trashed the Galapagos and what people are trying to do to save it.
There is a big area with tortoises where they are taking eggs from the various islands and
hatching and raising the babies until they are old enough to survive on their own. The
population has been so decimated both from past practices regarding tortoises, which I
don't even want to go into, and enemies in the form of man induced dogs and pigs to name a
couple, that they cannot survive any other way. We saw Lonesome George which is an
approx 120 year old tortoise who is the last of his species (race?) and when he dies, that
particular variety will officially become extinct. There were other enormous
tortoises that aren't extinct yet and we saw a few of them also. These are some
large puppies...."

19th February 2001
The ship arrived at the Galapagos islands at 1000 hours local time on the
17th . Soren Larsen is anchored at Puerto Aryoa and plans to stay here until the
24th.
Voyage Crew are commencing an island tour with a locally
chartered boat and will explore islands off Santa Cruz.
NEW
Voyage Crew Memories
Ian Marshall's Atlantic Crossing
Voy 142, Dec 2000

See pictures of the Curacao - Panama voyage at Voyage Crew Bob
Lewis' own webpage at http://www.nythfa.freeserve.co.uk/soren/sorenlarsen.html
See pics from John Homes and Alan Murphy of the
Grenada-Curacao leg:
here
First
Mate Sally Anderson sends us her WebLog report.
Cocos island, 12th Feb
The ship arrived Cocos island which is about 600 miles of the Panamanian coast.
This is tiny outpost of Costa Rica. They anchored around midnight on the 11th and stayed
until late afternoon on the 12th. They now have light airs and are motorsailing towards
Galapagos .
Gulf of Panama, 8th February 2001
Now sailing in the southern
reaches of the Gulf of Panama. New VC board 6th and we departed that afternoon.
Sailed off anchorage under tops'ls, t'gallant & working staysails. Overnight the fair
NW freshens to F5 & veers to the north.
++++++
VOYAGE CREW RETURNING HOME: Scan and email
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