- TALLSHIP SOREN LARSEN RETURNS IN 2004 To TAHITI & BORA
June & July 2004 - See more here
Also new is Voyage Crew
John Anderson's notes of the current voyage from Papeete -
onion soup served with garlic bread was yesterdays highlight, as we motored
northwards inside the reef, back to Uturoa. Indeed Squizzy´s and Sal´s succulent fare
has been the highlight of virtually every day.
A week ago I arrived in Papeete, capital of Tahiti, one of
THE tropical paradises if the world. And ever since it has been one damned tropical
paradise after another.
First there was the joy of reuniting with Sally and Nick and
meeting Tony once more. They were hard at work following refit. And then there was the
different kind of joy taking in the sights, sounds, tastes and smells of another part of
On Sunday we boarded. The Soren introduction revealed a
lively bunch with a sense of humour. It also revealed more than one third of my shipmates
were repeat customers. Obviously the rest of us had made a good choice.
Mid-afternoon our adventure began. We motored away from the
wharf and out through the gap in the reef into the blue Pacific. Moorea lay 20 miles ahead
and it as a little rolly-polly in a confused sea between the islands.
The sun was setting as we negotiated the
leads into Baie de Cook. It is fiord like with lush vegetation down to the waters
edge. Despite the ubiquitous cruise liner in the background I had to agree with Sally, its
quite a magnificent anchorage.
It was delightful to dip into the refreshing sea in the
morning. It was warm. It wasnt the cold rush which takes your breath away as it does at
home (in West Aus).
Together with Mike and Gil from Minnesota and Kiwi Bob, I
circumnavigated the island by road. The view from Le Belvedere was spectacular looking
down on Baie de Cook and its near twin Opunohu just to the west.
At nightfall we said farewell to Moorea and Huahine lay 90
miles to the north west. There was a brisk south easter and a quartering sea. With a clean
bottom Soren sprang to life under upper and lower topsails, main, both jibs and her new
course. It was hard to go off watch at 2000.
At 0400 nothing had changed except we had handed the course.
Huahine was before us beneath a full moon, hours ahead of schedule. Squalls passed on both
side at dawn and the lights of a fishing boat were way out on the horizon. A couple of
hours later it turned out to be another cruise liner headed for the windward side of the
island. Our destination was Fare, to leeward. Suddenly the wind eased and headed us and
the north east point lay dead ahead. Just as quickly the wind kicked back in and lifted us
We wore ship and rolled around the northern end of the island
and anchored inside the reef. Officialdom insisted we move a little further out of town.
By virtue of a set Soren lay parallel to the shore despite a strong and refreshing breeze
coming off the side of the island. Tony tells me it developed into a short 40+ knot blast
with a 50 knot gust in the early hours of the morning. Having spent an enjoyable evening
in Edna´s bar I slept through it all.
Next day it was June´s 60th and we celebrated in
style on board. The theme was "islands" and the dress was fancy. PC Daves
Mademoiselle Fifi was stunning and there were the inevitable buccaneers. One VC declared a
shrink would have a field day as most of the blokes were dressed as women.
We weighed anchor in the morning and had all four squares
flying with main and outer jib. Our landfall was Uturoa on Raiatea, together with another
Next day we tied up at the now vacant wharf. It made life
easier for the daytrippers. A morning group found a great snorkelling spot and more of us
went out in the afternoon. PC Nick and VC Anton spied a couple of small sharks. The
evening was lively for some.
Captain Tony took most of us to Marae Taputapuatea in the
morning; a spiritual place of significance in Polynesian folk lore. It is reputed to be
the point of embarkation for the great Polynesian navigators. And a place of human
sacrifice and fire walking; there were no volunteers.
VCs Monica and Charlie found us after diving on the wreck of
a Danish square rigger. Later we passed the local outrigger regatta fleet and picked up
the rest of the crew who had been spectating.
We motored to Tahaa Apu Bay. Another beautiful
anchorage on another tropical paradise. The tarzan rope came out and the spirited water
follies began, complete with egg fight.
It was bacon and eggs for
Sunday´s breakfast before motoring out through the reef, setting sails as we went. Ahead
lay Bora Bora, its lofty peak shrouded in cloud.
And here endeth the first week. Rolling down the south east
trades in brilliant sunshine and good company. And the aroma from the galley promised
another cullinary delight....
SEE PART TWO BORA
BORA TO COOK ISLANDS HERE
here for the Web Log report Pitcairn / Henderson to Marquesas.
here for the Web Log report Easter Island - Henderson.
Below are links to Sally Anderson's Web Log reports from
the Galapagos to Easter island:
Part 1 tells of their passage from Panama
to Cocos island - 7/12th Feb. Click here.
Part 2 covers from Cocos
Island to the Galapagos - 13/18th Feb. Click here:
Part 3 recounts their journey
and Easter Island, and their experiment in traditional navigation
methods, 22 - 28th Feb:
Part 4: Continues the passage
to their arrival at Easter
Island, 1st-19th March: Click here.
VOYAGE CREW RETURNING HOME: Scan and email
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