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Fi McCarva - the ships assistant cook gives us her impression of the voayge from Vanuatu to New Caledonia:

Wed 26/9 - Erromango, Vanuatu
VanuatuSouthMap.jpg (7925 bytes)Arrived at Dillons Bay, west of Erromango island en route to Tanna from Efate. Although we only had a half day, it was a welcome break after a choppy night. Boats went ashore and villagers took crew on a leisurely walk by the river to the fruit and veg gardens - each person has their own crop to look after. Our guide pointed out taro, pineapple, sandalwood (which Erromango was once famous for) and kauri trees which is a hardwood similar to mahogany. He then shimmied up a coconut tree and cut open a young green coconut filled with creamy milk and gelatinous flesh. This island was once renowned for cannibalism and the unfortunate missionaries had named it Martyrs island but they were wonderful hosts.

Leaving Erromango in the late afternoon, a shout went out ‘dolphins on the bow’ and sure enough there were 30 or so swimming alongside, silhouetted against the yellow afternoon sun. Some with young, some jumping each wave with a kick of the tail, others catching the surf.

Thurs 27/9 - Tanna, VanuatuPt Resolution_small.jpg (9638 bytes)
Anchored at Port Resolution (Cook anchored here in 1774) early in the morning and crew went ashore to take advantage of the cooler morning. Outrigger canoes were out fishing in the bay and kids were walking the beach picking black berries that tasted of liquorice. The famous dugong has since died and its skeleton is housed on the beach. The yacht club sits on a rocky outcrop overlooking the bay and a small Western gravestone from 1894 lies close by, dedicated to ACP Watt (Misibran). We were met by Stanley whose father is Assistant Chief Ronnie and he explained that this was a missionaries wife who didn’t believe in the power of the local belief system of kaston and one day a villager placed one of her personal effects on a holy Tannese stone. She quickly became ill and died but the story goes that she must have been a strong Christian as the stone cracked in two! Nowadays the people in Port Resolution are Jon Frum Cargo Cult believers.

As we walked through the village, ladies were preparing laplap in a hot rock oven and palm frond hats were being woven. The path to the beach crossed a nakamal (custom place for men to congregate at sunset for kava drinking). Stanley warned it was tabu for women to walk through after 3 in the afternoon.

It’s said that Mt Yasur is one of the most accessible volcanoes in the world and we were able to get a bush ‘taxi’ to the ash base which looked like the biggest carpark in the world! Another 100m and we were walking the rim of the breathing volcano. It was very smoky but as it got darker, the glow of red hot lava permeated the plumes of sulphur.

Back at the Port Resolution yacht club, the village put on an amazing feast of chicken, fish, yam, taro, island cabbage and papaya. We were welcomed into the village and each presented with a woven hat - the lady seen earlier had made 30 hats in one day! For the remainder of the evening an informal band of guitarists were accompanied by women and children and everyone was up dancing. Tanna has been my favourite place so far and I’d love to return.

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Sun 30/9 - Grand Terre, New Caledonia

Arrived in Noumea after a wonderful 2 day sail from Tanna. After customs clearance, the Soren sailed to Amedee island which has the worlds largest iron lighthouse imported from Paris by Napoleon III. The island is riddled with colourful sea-snakes and an adventure for the amateur snorkeller!

 

 

 

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VOYAGE CREW RETURNING HOME:  Scan and email or post your pictures of your voyage! If you have an account of your trip or a special moment then let us a know. Your tales can be included in the Voyage Log!

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Sally's reports:

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27 Pics Raro-Tnga
26 Tony: Ambrym
25 Pics Dons Party
23 Monica's Fiji
22 Ruth's Voyage
21 Monica' Tonga
20 Tonga-Fiji
19 Cooks -Tonga
18 Tahiti Drydock
17c Pics Society I
17b Bora-Cooks
17a Tahiti-Bora
16a Tuamotos
16 Tahiti
15 Pitcarin Island
14 Easter Island -Pitcairn
13 Sally's reports,
Panama-Easter I.

12 Pieter's Report
11 Galapagos 2
10 Galapagos
9 Panama
8 Panama Pics
7 Venez Islds

6 Grenadines
5 Caribbean
4 Mid Atl 1
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NEW Thor's Pictures Raro-Tonga
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Paul Huisking reflects on his
Auckland -Panama
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last year.
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NEW
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Voyage Crew Memories
Ian Marshall's Atlantic Crossing Voy 142, Dec 2000
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See pictures of the Curacao - Panama voyage at V. Crew Bob Lewis' own webpage

 

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See pics from John Homes and Alan Murphy of the Grenada-Curacao leg.
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Leaving Charlestown
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ReRigging Topmast
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UK Refit 1:
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Archived Voyage Logs:
A look back on our Year 2000  Global Odyssey from Auckland to the States and Europe...


Auckland to Easter Island

Easter Island to Panama and Miami

Miami to New York

NY, Halifax to
Amsterdam


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