Across the Caribbean to Cuba. Log entries from the ship
The ship sailed from Auckland on March 8th at the
commencement of her 18 month Global Odyssey voyage to the States and Europe, Britain.
Below are log reports and illustrations of her epic journey.
See Purser Kate's Diary updates below
Easter Island to Panama . Panama to Miami
Tuesday 6th June - Miami
The ship has arrived in Miami and cleared US customs!
The ship officially joins the OpSail Miami
2000 tallships regatta here and it was nice to see that offical sponsors NBC television http://www.nbc6.net have used
Soren's picture on their website logo.. Its also a good place to find out more about
what's happening in Miami.
Kate's Diary - Panama to Miami:
Balboa, Pacific side of the Panama Canal
|An assortment of new
voyage crew of nationalities join the ship; Kiwis, Aussies, Dutch, Belgium, US,
English. Kiwis Val & Bill so keen they arrived a day early!! Introductions made.
Meal outside under a Panamanian sky full of lightening and striking sunsets.
|Wed 17th May
|Prepare to go
through the Panam Canal. Pilot arrives to direct Soren through the locks. Soren shares a
lock with Chilean Naval Training Ship the Ésmeralda. Voyage Crew taken aloft for
the first time. PompyPete, (aka Pegleg Pete, famous past VCrew Ed.) whom has
artificial leg, inspires us all as he reaches the futtocks grinning from ear to ear. We
were all very moved. Canal takes approx. half a day, water rises in a matter of 20 seconds
before gates open into the next lock. Pilot goes aloft and was so comfortable, he almost
didnt come back down. Pass through last lock into Colon and the Caribbean Sea!
||Motor sail north east
into the caribbean Sea towards Cayman Islands. Clear blue waters and humid weather. M.O.B.
muster and familiarisation with lines and sails. Accompanied by dolphins under moonlit
sky. Watches begin.
|Fri 19th May
||Fiona taught 12-4am
breadmaking techniques by Kate. Kates technique not so good used baking soda
instead of yeast! Bread fed to fish! Wind picks up. All aloft to ungasket the squares. Set
sail humming along. Captain Jim begins celestial navigation talks.
|Sat 20th May
||Made 120nm in last 24
hours. Grand Caymans not far away! Beautiful clear skies. Steph harnesses onto bowsprit
and indulges in a Caribbean water splash-out, as bow wash drenches her. Karen has her
special treat1 hour before her watch with rock-n-roll playing on the discman
and wind in her hair! Jim stops Soren at Roneador reef for a swim. Swing rope rigged from
the course yard. Clear water visability at least 10-20 metres. A few tropical fish
below. Photo taken of engineer, Mike, dining to propellor with a can of Lion Red.
Snorkelling gear out Johan, a most proficient Belgium swimmer! Many brave the swing
rope for the first time, including Helen, Kate, Karen, Fiona and many more.
|Sun 21st May
||Retail therapy and sea
with Soren shop. Terris carvings are unique and catch the interest of many. Global
Odyssey t-shirts and polos disappear onto peoples backs! Cannot tell Voyage Crew
from crew now. Brothers Mike and Terry are on a reuniting trip and have us in hysterics
with their jovial comical nature. Sunday roast for dinner is a Soren tradition , even in
|Mon 22nd May
||3.30am sight glow of
Georgetown on the horizon. Many more bodies sleeping on deckhouse roof and poop deck under
the stars. The fresh air, a luxury.
|Tues 23rd May
|Grand Cayman Islands
ahoy. We are neighbour to a huge cruise ship called Ecstasy. Soren is a midget
in comparison. Cleared customs and immigration. Boat trips ashore. Steph, Fiona and Holly
go to 7 mile beach. Lots of shops and souviners. Sample local beer and local pub called
MacDonalds. Peter V who has been a hard working day worker'' takes a day off! Lea
|Wed 24th May
||The windsurfer comes
out. Johan proves to be a star windsurfer and spends almost half a day on the water. Nick
has a go and is given a few tips from Capt. Jim. Scuba Dives organised yesterday with a
local dive company. Karen, Todd, Terri, Mike S, Ben and I do some beautiful wall and wreck
dives. Many fish, corals and visibility excellent. Dove to 100ft in only swimming togs.
Warm water! Many Voyage Crew visit the turtle farm however did not sample turtle
burgers... Due to crew antics a nearby floating pirate ship is missing a pirate flag,
after we were 'fired upon' by loud canons during the last two days.
||Set sail for Havana with
pirate flag flying. Sail off the anchor. Good to have fresh breeze again. Fiona has
happily acquired an airbed for the deckhouse roof. I continue to sleep on the woodpile on
teh deckhouse roof. A very comfy posse. Swags are out in force.
|Sat 27th May
||Cuba on the radar! Cuban
flag is raised. We have a Cuban theme party to celebrate Bills birthday. Many
Castros and Ches emerge. Helen and Don collectively get the sails aback
-ooops. Sextants are out on the aft deck and sun sights taken.
|Sun 28th May
||Jim's famous auction bag
day! Voyage Crew learn fast not to leave belongings lying around. Crew still seem a bit
slower to learn!
|Mon 29th May
|Alongside at Hemmingway
Marina, Havana. Customs etc. clearance took many hours. Voyage Crew explore Havana City
and visit old fortresses castle Moro and markets. Ship gets some TLC as topsides
are painted and deckhouse varnished. Discover bar close by that has $10.00 all you can
drink: beer and Cuban rum. We all end up dancing the night away and having a great time.
|Tues 30th May
||Open air swimming pool
right next door. Great to have evening swims with a cool drink. Beautiful sunsets and
electrical storms. Havana full of colour and culture. Many people have ride on
tuk-tuks- great way to see the city. Much music and Cubans selling cigars on
the street. People everywhere and bicycles everywhere. Cuban fashion of very tight and
colourful pants being nicknamed as mumble pants. Various crew members have
hair braided in a Cuban house. Catch a horse and cart ride back to Marina. Havanan people
are so very friendly and hospitable.
|Wed 31st May
Check out the movie Bueno Vista Social Club and you will understand the great time
weve had in these Cuban bars! Great music and great dancing.
Dans Birthday his wish was a "fancy freemeal day! Watchs
change. Motor sailing to the Grand Bahamas. Nick dressed as Che with beret, me with with
beads in my hair, Holly with her mumble pants pottery woman, Abi with new flax
bag, many with their cigars and rum - and big smiles all round.
|Fri 2nd June
||Glow of Grand Bahamas on
|Sat 3rd June
|Arrive in the mail dock
of Freeport. Takes a few hours to clear customs and immigration. Once cleared, all pile
into minibus to Port Lucays to visit beach and markets. Ship is cleaned up, signs
touched up for Miami.
|Sun 4th June
||Voyage Crew hire beach
buggies for 24 hours. Holly and others take scooters around the island. Crew relax at
resort next to beach then hit the closest Wendys and movie theatre. Civilisation!
Sunday roast and a big wine evening back onboard.
|Mon 5th June
||Leave Grand Bahama and
motor sail west to Miami.
|Tues 6th June
|Arrive in Miami! Can see
several tall ships along the coastline. Escorted into the harbour with pilot. Berthed
behind Dutch ship Óosterschedele. Tall ships from all around the world are lined up
the wharf all dressed in bunting flags and rigging lit up at night.
|Wed 6th June
|Miami is explored.
Opsail 2000 provides free metro tickets for all Voyage Crew. Terri the shanty
womanled us all up the wharf singing sea shanties. Sang Drunken Sailor
right outside Navy ship. Met many ships and crew along the way. Fancy dress Mparty
last night. Dan was a Martian doing atu-batu chants, Terri a mermaid,
Helen a mandarin, Abi a mahimahi fish, Karen a minstral and many
||Ship has a public open
day. Last day for our comrades. We had a large party last night, provided by Opsail at the
Hard Rock Café. Met crew from Esmeralda, Harnet Lane Coastguard, The Eagle, Calafornia,
HMS Rose, Capitan Miranda, Gazella and many more. Sad departures especially to
Vince, who has been with us since New Zealand. We will all meet again soon and swap pics
from this great voyage! A special thanks to the officers of Harnet Lane for all their help
|Sat 10th June
||New Voyage Crew join
yesterday at 10am once again a smorgasboard of nationalities: Welsh, American,
English and our Dutchman Peter V remains as well as Kiwi Fiona and Australian Pam and
English Pete H. Ex Voyage Crew Ben W has joined us again until Charleston. Happy to have
him back. We prepare ship for Parade of Sails, which begins after lunch. Larger ships
leave first, we follow the Oosterschedele and fly the NZ flag. National anthem played as
we sail out of harbour and Salute Miami goodbye. Sail straight into rain and strong winds.
Sails set, first reef in main. Wet weather gear out! By evening, weather is fine and we
are on our way to Nassau, Bahamas.
Sunday 4th June 2000 - the Bahamas
Soren Larsen has arrived in Freeport Grand Bahama, having motorsailed from
Havana. Having enjoyed reasonable sailing winds to the Cayman Islands and to the western
corner of Cuba the weather has been good but with dead flat seas and little breeze. Soren
Larsen had to motor the last day or so into Havana and again from Havana to the Bahama
however we were helped by the favourable current as expected and has allowed us time for
some great port calls.
Soren Larsen is aiming to
arrive in Miami on the 6th June which will allow us time enjoy the OpSail 2000 festivities
and see some of the other ships that will be there from South America and the OpSail event
in Puerto Rico. It will be an exciting start to our time in the States.
Monday 29th May 2000 - Havana.
The ship has arrived at Havana, Cuba and has cleared Customs after a friendly but
lengthy three hour process. On the passage from Colon on the northern (Atlantic)
side of the Panama Canal we called at Cayman Island and enjoyed a day and bit at George
Town, the capital on Grand Cayman and Stingray Cove.
Sailing north-west Soren made best use of the
favourable current up the Yucatan Channel around the west side of Cuba and on to the
capital Havana. The ship will stay here until the morning of 1st June and sail for
Freetown in the Bahamas so there are a couple of days to enjoy the sights, colour and
music of the capital.
Monday 22nd May 2000 - Caribbean
The ship is motor sailing north with a moderate ENE breeze. They are making
reasonable time and Jim's intention is to make for the British Caribbean isles of the
Cayman Islands just South West of Jamaica. The e.t.a. these is the morning of the
23rd local time.
Thursday 18th May 2000: - Panama
Soren Larsen transited the canal yesterday and is anchoring overnight at Colon
before setting out at first light for open water the Caribbean. Soren went
through the Miraflores Lock system with another South American tallship bound for the
OpSail event in Miami.
These images were captured
off the Live Web Cam at the Panama Canal website.
Wednesday 17th May 2000 - Balboa,
The new Voyage Crew are aboard and the ship is just taking some diesel at the
fuel berth in Balboa and getting ready to sail. The crew have had a typically hectic
turnaround period but all are well. Kate and John now have a working knowledge of the
banks and laundries of Balboa. Abi and Todd have been very busy reprovisioning the food
stores - Todd even managed to have $500 taken off the bill after meticulously going
over it with the providor!
Soren Larsen is booked in to transit
the Panama Canal tomorrow i.e. 9am local time 17th May.
See if you can see the ship go through the first massive lock system at Miraflores on the
live web camera at
Note 0900 am Panama time is 0200 am in New Zealand or 1500 UK time.
(If you see her right click on the picture and 'Save
Picture As' and email it to the Auckland office!!). The ship will reach the Atlantic side
of the canal at 1800 and anchor at Colon before setting out into the Caribbean the next
Ship's Purser Kate
Ryan gives us some notes from her diary of life at sea
Easter Island to Panama
||Arrive at Easter Island
at 3.00am. Breakfast on deck whilst being watched by the Moai from ashore. Eight people
came from immigration and customs. I ended up playing chess with Adrian it took so long!
Voyage Crew get ashore to explore and ship maintenance begins. When we get ashore Dan,
Mike, Ben and I (crew) hire small car and explore Easter Island. Very hot weather. We
drove to a sandy beach, Anakena. Surrounded in wild horses and the giant stone moai on
their backs. We walked to top of quarry where moai were built.. Beautiful view. Amazing
scored a surf off a locals surfboard. Very friendly people. Some of the Voyage Crew
went to church, others did a pre-arranged tour. Visited the 'birdman place' called Orongo.
Saw the naval of the world.
Back on board it was Ben Poff and Kate's combined
birthday bash. Fancy dress theme was "People of the Pacific". Peter presented
'moai pens gifts' as awards.
||Depart Easter Island.
Sail off the anchor. All hands on deck to hand sails. Executed beautifully.
||Searching for a
favourable northeast of easterly wind to take us to Galapagos. Full moon and starry night.
Terri on poopdeck plays the squeeze box and Paul joins in with harmonica.
||Nick and Ben continue
their chess tournament. First to 33 buys the other a bottle of rum. Richard and Alan play
copious amounts of backgammon. Flat waters therefore more "deck gym" about.
||Competition set by
Captain Jim between watches to sail the most miles in an easterly direction. Busy setting
and handling sails every morning and evening as wind picks up then goes again. Chatter
during the night watches under glowing orange moon.
||Flying fish consistently
follow us on port side of ship. Many end up on deck. Catherine delights in examining their
wing spans. Meanwhile stalemate at the chess tournament.
||4-8 watch report flying
fish skidding across length of main sheet and ending up at the helm.
||Good Friday. Catherine
has learnt canvas work from Terri and is making the ships new fire buckets. Abi and
Terri were up early this morning to treat us with hot cross buns. After a few friendly
splashes Kieran Russell and Catherine Stevenson decide to bombard oncoming watch with
water balloons from deckhouse roof. Huge water fight is the result. Unfortunately the
girls get a massive soaking.
||Calm seas and sunny
days. Large Tuna surfing the bow wake. Nick decides to take fishing line forward. Caught
15-20 by pound tuna from the tip of the jib-boom. Beautiful eating and the tuna continue
to swim like small dolphins across our bow.
Fire drill with a demo on rescuing a burns victim, in this
case Mike, from below decks. Adrian demonstrates the stretcher strapped in tight
and hung upside down! Jim has a lost property auction on poop deck. Somehow my underpants
go in for auction. Catherine and Keiran begin to make their own scrabble game with much
laboured cutting and sanding of wood. Catherine and I are also now involved with the
lanyard making group led by our 2nd Mate Eric Anderson.
||Watches devise egg hunt
for the oncoming watch 12-4 watch had a riddle involving "Greta Garbo" : 4-8
watch eventually finds their eggs in the garbage! Tania and team create a messy trail of
clues to the eggs using tallow, hand cleaner, brasso and grease. Riddles send people aloft
to find clues on sails and bags of potatoes on the course. Everyone stuffed with chocolate
(peanuts for the savoury tastebuds among us).
||200-300 dolphins swarm
past the ship in hot pursuit of flying fish. Jumping and squeaking at each other. A most
spectacular sight from aloft and from the bow. Eric begins yet another lanyard to add to
his harness. I continue with mine which has been said to be too chunky. Vince
eagerly climbs aloft to tallow the yard sheets. Tania and Ben assist with tarring the
||Change of watches.
Sighted whales either tropical or Sei whales. Mid afternoon a strange current called
"humbololt" passed by. Water is like small eruptive volcanos. Played deck coits
with Captain Jim. Chess tournament score 23-25 to Ben! The air is thick with tension.
Scraping and sanding the foremast is coming along nicely. The new mainsail we put on in
New Zealand is handed and unbent and the old mainsail bent on.
||No wind. Motor running.
Large turtle swimming faster than us goes by. Man overboard drill. So hot today that we
stopped the ship and went swimming in 10,000 feet of water. Amazing. Swing rope is out of
action but we hang off anchors and bowsprit..
||3 Fishing trawlers
passed. Traffic is increasing as we near the Galapagos Islands. Terri continues to slave
away on the name boards sanding and varnishing. Photo opportunity of Soren under
full sail from the doti (inflatable rescue) boat.
||MAY DAY. (not Mayday!)
No wind. Little fuel. Beautiful sunset . Lighting on the horizon. One minute of silence at
the helm flag at half mast, lest we forget.
||Short fin pilot whales
sighted. Currently at 1º South latitude: getting closer to the Equator crossing. Front of
deckhouse has now been scraped and sanded by the day watch maintenance team. Boobie birds
are now following us each night..
||Raised the Equadorian
flag. Surrounded by hundreds of dolphins. 8-10 large 2 metre dolphins playing in the bow
wake. They were with us for 1-2 hours. One tried to splash Ben Poff and Iain whilst they
sat on the jiboom. Seals swam past barking at the dolphins. Sighted many blue footed
boobies and gannets. This afternoon the watch swapped the new upper topsail with the older
one which had been dragged up from the sail locker below decks.
||Dropped anchor at
Galapagos, Santa Cruz. Cleared Customs, Crew and Voyage Crew went ashore. Sea Iguanas
scurried across the wharf. At the Darwin Research Centre there were tortoises of all ages,
many pelicans and frigate birds. Someone accidentally mistook a Galapagos tortoise faeces
for a rock - oops. In the evening we dined cheaply ashore. South American
music bands playing in the retail shops. We all had a big boogie-on-down! Voyage Crews
taken on a tour outside of town centre which all came back raving about. It was only the
briefest visit to the Galapagos but it was enjoyed immensely by all!
||On our way to Panama
whilst leaving Galapagos sighted manta ray feeding and more seals and dolphins. A frigate
bird has decided to nest in the tgallant sheet. As a joke, we get a bedpan out for
Richard for him to use in his deck gym for deck crunches. Sight more boats and bow watch
spots a floating soccer ball. Deckhouse front varnished.
||The crossing. King
Neptune and his wife judge all the pollywogs on board. Shellbacks Peter Vellekoop, Martin,
Mike and Eric assist in the punishments which include some shaved heads and eyebrows,
rotten eggs, cabbage, porridge, kissing the 2nd mates buttocks, lashed to the
shrouds then dunked in a pool of water, finished off with a tot of rum. Carnage on the
Soren Larsen. Neptune then sent forth spinner dolphins, pilot whales to escort us and a
boobie bird that came for a rest on the bowsprit.
|Unfortunately after the
Galapagos a bug has spread through the ship. Can few people bed ridden and off watches.
Our medical officer has become known as 'Toilet Terri' as she looks after everyone. Want
to go to the heads? Make your reservation now
||Paul has taken to
playing the harmonica aloft. Air filled with good music. Tania has started playing the
fiddle more. Foremast and deckhouse getting final coats of varnish. The nameboards shine
like glass. We enjoy late afternoon drinks on deck with John as our barman, accompanied by
spectacular sunsets. Dinner is served on deck.
||The donkey is working
hard engineer Mike is kept very busy with engine mechanisms and cabin fans. Ben
takes to afternoon siestas and resting in his new Galapagos hammock. Kate makes pois and
gives a 4 poi dance show on foredeck. Yay! Bosun Dan announces plans for a 'SEx
night" - a Superb Evening Xtravaganza: a talent show for last night. Rehearsals
||Wind picks up. Donkey
goes to bed for a bit. 7 ½ knots and cruising. Turtles sighted. Catherine and Dan are
doing afternoon deck exercises. Paul discovers that Catherine is deadly at scrabble. Jim
briefs us on Panama.
||Squares are harbour
stowed. Lots of ships being sighted now. Manage to get caught in fishing lines, nearly got
the big Soren Larsen haul!
||Fireworks display coming
from the smoke stack. Engine stopped at 2.40m and Dan has a go at using Cabin Boy
Catherine as a chimney sweep. Engine started again around 8.00am. Very humid, bodies
sleeping everywhere on deck. Fire drill before afternoon tea. Lightning shows. Visibility
deteriorates to hazy horizon. Mainsail doused. Many ships seen now.
||A terrible stench in the
air! Gag! We can smell civilization - land.
Iain sighted a very large whale, dolphins at the bow.
Arriving at Panama City there are lights and huge ships everywhere. Soren is like a
miniature boat. We anchor out and wait for Customs officials. A few drinks at night.
S.e.x. party is called off due to late night arrival.
||We have arrived!!
Customs and Immigration cleared. Sadly we say goodbye to our new comrades who will all be
dearly missed. Hugs and kisses all round. Promises of meeting up again. Certificates given
out for 8,048 nautical miles! A great thank you to Jim for getting us here. The great
Pacific crossing is complete.
to top of this page
Monday 15th May 2000 - Balboa,
The ship has arrived at 2200 hours 12th May, Balboa, the port of the Pacific side
of the Panama Canal at the end of their passage from Auckland. The ship is in the
process of their brief turn around period and preparation for the arrival of the new
voyage crew for the next voyage to Miami. There is a provisional slot for us to transit
the canal on the17th but this has yet to be confirmed.
See if you can spot Soren Larsen at the Canal locks on
this live web cam!
Thurs 11th May -
Gulf of Panama (Pacific side of the Canal)
Sails are furled and the ship is motorsailing in slight seas with 5 knot breeze
on the port bow. The water is very salty and very warm - 28 deg and with the yard trimmed
the ship is making a gentle 4.5 knots to maintain a correct engine temperature. This may
put back her e.t.a. into Panama to mid or late afternoon on the 12th. The excitement on
board at the prospect of approaching their destination is mixed with a little sadness that
their 2 month passage together is nearing an end. Vince and Peter are staying on for the
voyage to through the Canal and across the Caribbean to the USA but most of the other
voyage crew are leaving the ship here and our new v.crew arriving at Balboa.
We received news via the parents of Voyage Crew Iain Grant after
he'd been in touch from Galapagos
"We are pleased to hear that the present voyage is going well,
Iain is over the moon after being ashore on the Galapagos. They had a tour of the Island
which he said was fantastic and saw more giant tortoises than he could imagine. As he said
what a bonus. He has loved the voyage with a great crew now looking forward to
Wed 10th May 2000 - Approaching Gulf of
The ship is sailing in light breezes during the day and motorsailing by night to
make the necessary average speed to Panama. King Neptune appeared at the Crossing the Line
ceremony a few days ago and all previously uninitiated Pollywogs were confirmed as
Shellbacks in a ceremony described as "wild and excellent with no injuries".
Many of the those that went ashore at the Galapagos suffered for 2-3 days
afterwards with 'Galap-belly' but all are fine now.
The latest e.t.a. at Panama is noon local time
on 12th May.
Monday 8th May 2000
The ship reports they are now "1º North and 86º West: Nep
Rex today! All
well on board. - In contact with Panama agent Jim" As the ship motor
sails north from the Galapagos they have crossed the Equator and entered the northern
hemisphere. Those 'crossing the line' for the first time under sail will have to
pay their dues to King Neptune and formally atone for their crimes at his official
court.... The resulting mayhem is usually a very messy affair..
Friday 5th May 2000 - Galapagos
The ship is sailing at Noon today having enjoyed a brief 32 hour visit here. The
ship has been at Academy Bay, Santa Cruz and was moving to alongside the berth for fuel.
Voyage crew did have a day to get ashore and have a look around. It was an all too brief
visit but this stop over was not in our original voyage plan and was something of a bonus
due to the fast sailing passage the ship enjoyed between Auckland and Easter Island.
Wednesday 3rd May 2000
Revised 1º 30' South and 93º 15' West
Jim reports that the light breezes have died away and the ship's e.t.a. at Galapagos
late 3rd May. This will give them about a day or a day and a half there.
The ship was trying to make the most of the sailing breezes to conserve diesel oil and now
they are contending with hot conditions and no wind for the final 150 n.miles to port.
Monday 1st May: 2º 30' South and 96º West
The ship is approaching the Galapagos Island group and is soon to sail past the southern
islands of Santa Maria and Espanola and arrive at Santa Cruz island and anchor off
Puerto Ayora within the next 24 hours. Note the Galapagos are 17 hours behind
New Zealand or ( GMT -6 Hours ).
The captain intends to spend about 3 days here and it will
be a good fact finding stop over in preparation for our slightly longer visit next year on
our return journey (Voy 145. Panama - Tahiti Feb 2001).
The Galapagos Archipelago consists of 13 large islands and
six smaller islands and numerous islets, many of which remain unnamed and is about 450 km
long from Darwin Island in the north-west to Espanola island in the south east.
Today the area is renowned world wide for its outstanding
beauty and unique ecology, however when HMS Beagle first arrived there in 1845 Charles
Darwin wrote "I scarcely hesitate to affirm, that there must be in the whole
archipelago at least two thousand craters ... Nothing could be less inviting than the
first appearance." We shall soon find out what Soren Larsen crew's first
Wednesday 26th April : 6º
South and 105º West.
The ship reports that they are getting better sailing breezes as they sail north towards
the equator. All is well on board and everyone is getting acclimatised to the to the
increasingly hot sun. Well nearly everyone - although the increased breeze is a help on
deck, the crew are sweating it out in the focs'le. While several where already sleeping
out on the deckhouse roof at night the competition for a prime space has increased in the
last week or so.
Its not much cooler in the galley but the cooks, Todd and
Abby are still serving great food with nothing more of a problem than a blown element in
the bread toaster. Spares are not expected to be found in Galapagos!
The Galapagos Islands lie at 1º South and
90º 30' west.
Captain Jim advises that their present e.t.a. in the Galapagos Islands is Tuesday 2 May
and he says he expects to stay within the island group for about 3 days.
Thurs 20th April
The ship is making good progress north toward the Galapagos Islands. Jim will advise an
e.t.a. there after the weekend.
Wed 19th April 2000
|1608 NZ time
||17º 32' south
||109º 59' west
Tues 18th April 2000
|1610 NZ time
||22º 50' south
||110º 20' west
||6k motor sailing
16 April 2000; The ship has
had quite broken reception with Russell Radio but as she makes her way north towards the
Galapagos they report that all is well, although they are contending with 'baffling winds'
as they approach the doldrum latitudes.
Fri 15th April 2000
|2030 NZ time
||24º 00' south
||111º 30' west
diary extracts and observations Auckland to Easter Island
- by Kate Ryan, Ship's Purser
Auckland accompanied by dusky dolphins. Anchor Colville Bay
sail to Tauranga. Watches allocated emergency motor drills.
inflatable is dispatched to pick up the new sails that have been couriered down here.
Voyage Crew Adrian Wilkinson sees his 1st hammerhead shark on his 1st
time aloft. Purple sunset, flying fish, blue penguins. Heading south we hit a gale off
East Cape. Take refuge at Whangaporoa Bay. Sea shanties and drinks all round.
learns to helps to whip mainsail reefing lines on the new main. Bend new sails on. Prepare
for great ocean passage take 2: Passing White Island we sight many dolphins. Captain Jim
Cottiers navigational talks/lesson is well attended.
6/7 knots. All are involved in learning sail handling. Voyage Crew Ben Willoughby sees
sunfish off bow. Goodbye New Zealand. 3609 to Easter Island.
and wind good. Average 6-8 knots. Surrounded by ocean. V.Crew Richard Pomeroy, Iain Grant
and our cook Todd Cooper, declare their abstinence from alcohol and a daily fitness regime
on foredeck. Ha! Ha! Wandering albatross and shearwaters follow our wake. We cross the
International Dateline, 3227 nautical miles to Easter Island.
Drizzly weather, lads fitness regime moves inside.
Tania Dolinschek supplies us with daily riddles and Richard P. and Paul Huisking provide
guitar and harmonica sessions. We have a Fire drill exercise before afternoon tea.
gale. Fitness regime on hold. Barometer at 990, torrential rain. Cold, high, 8m seas, wind
40-50 knots. Captain Jim decides to heave-to and with helm lashed hard to port with the
mainsail set we sit out the storm.
and a heavy wave jars the rudders and causes steering gear failure. Engineer Mike Saunders
fixes the crown wheel . Winds continue. Very roly poly.
Patrick's Day. Wake up to calm seas and blue skies. Deckhouse and saloon are decorated in
green balloons and streamers. Green water balloon war ensues. Search for leprechaun and
pots of gold via riddles. Irish joke telling competition bottle of port won by
Richard. Crew Terri Cottier is painted in Irish clovers. Yummy Irish stew. Green bread is
less popular and Albatross numbers double as meal scraps go overboard. 2863 nautical miles
to Easter Island.
practice the man overboard drill.
she blows!" Jim sees a whale spout at a few metres from the ship
watch spot pod of pilot whales alongside ship. 4-5 metre swells sweep under the hull from
the south west. Voy Crew Vince Kayes (68) birthday. Vince has been with the ship on
several long passages before, including the Cape Horn voyage in '91. Tells us many stories
of when he had his 1st raspberry jam sandwich at age 2 years! Good
memory. Watches change. 2544 nautical miles to Easter Island.
Crew Peter Velekoop is a keen fisherman, caught 2 skipjak tuna for us off the lure line
trailed from the ship's stern.
Crew have been on learning to take sextant sites, when the sun rarely comes out. Søren
covered 191 nautical miles noon-to-noon today.
fancy dress with theme THE SNAPPLEDOOZER - bird, mammal or fish, it could be
anything you wish. V. Crew Paul H. made the night with a fantastic historic lead-up to the
origins of The Snappledoozer. The evening finished with singing at the helm
under star lit sky with Terri and her squeezebox.
tension chess competitions between Nick Anderson and Ben W. (Nick is getting whipped).
Chess addiction starts spreading throughout the ship
W. has everyone groaning with his witty comments and innuendoes. Good value to have on
has all crew mesmerised with his leather carrycase with silver drinking mugs, rums, whisky
Fools day honey on the wheel, gladwrap on seats, tallow on the bilge pump handle.
12-4 baked hollowed out bread loaves.. Captain Jim had us all on deck waiting for an
airforce / TVNZ documentary flyover. He had the last laugh. Had a successful limerick
night with everyone describing their shipmates in verse. Nick A. seemed to be a recurrent
theme for many...
Big swells, strong winds. Voyage Crew Iain Grant constantly cops every wave that comes
inboard. All the men have been growing shady beards and now 2 days before Easter Island
shaved them off.
at Easter Island on the night of the 7th. First lights sighted by Tania at
11.40pm. Strange to hear the anchor dropped and to wake up to no ship movement.
waking go up on deck and there is Easter Island. Calm conditions for landing. Clear
place, the stone 'moai' heads very mysterious and majestic. Massive effort to walk up to
the quarry in scorching sun. Markets bustling and busy with Spanish bargains. Ian G,
Kieran R, Ben W and Adrian W. spend Saturday night on the town (being followed by packs of
dogs on heat!)
type stuff at the Agents office, the laundry, the tour operator and now the phone company
to get this sent back to you! Tonight we have a Pacific island fancy dress party for me,
Ben Poff and Adrian as a joint birthday celebration. Tomorrow we plan to leave here and
sail on the next part of the adventure - the Galapagos!
here for earlier Voyage Log Reports of the ship's passage
from Auckland to Easter Island
Global Odyssey Dates