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and wind direction will decide whether we visit Mota Lava or the
uninhabited Reef Islands Lagoon and/or make to Ureparapara at the
north west end of the Banks. This last anchorage is inside the huge
breached crater of the volcano that is the island and its steep,
spectacular walls made for a strenuous but rewarding hours
climb through the jungle to the crater rim. Here we visited the
well established village, seen custom dancing and bought wood carvings.
We
should expect to have make to windward back to Santo and will sail
or motor sail down the protected (leeward) west side of Vanua Lava
stopping at a good snorkeling anchorage we know with a thunderous
waterfall falling to the shore.
We
would make an overnight passage to maximise our time ashore. If
there is time it is worthwhile sail into Big Bay on the north coast
of Santo. Here the Portuguese navigator Quiros first discovered
and named the land, thinking it was the fabled great southern continent,
and the rugged hills and dense rainforest is just as he would have
seen them in 1606. Alternatively the master may choose to sail down
the west coast of Santo, calling at the coastal villages there who
see very few visiting boats.
A duty
watch system will still operate while we are under way but this
will be less exacting than on an uninterrupted ocean passage. Once
we drop anchor the deck watch is undertaken by the 13 permanent
crew and you, the Voyage Crew, are free to explore ashore.
Most
nights will be at anchor as sailing distances between the islands
are perhaps only 20-70 miles. We will usually weigh anchor early
each morning and aim to arrive at our next anchorage by early afternoon
although there will be the chance for a couple of overnight sails
between the islands. When at an anchorage we use Soren's 17 ft inflatable
boat for runs to the beach to explore ashore. The ship has masks
and snorkels for all those who want to swim from the ship.
The
voyage finishes back at Luganville on the southern side of Santo
and it would be worth spending a day or so here after the voyage
if your time allows. The town was the main American base in W.W.II
and today is the only main town on the island. When the Americans
left they chose to bulldoze all their war surplus equipment into
the sea rather than leave it behind and the huge collection of trucks,
jeeps, and stores lies just off the shore at Million Dollar Point.
It now forms a colourful reef that can be dived on or seen with
snorkels. For experienced scuba divers the US President Coolidge
is a must. The 1930's luxury passenger liner was sunk by a friendly
mine and now lies intact on its side in 70-200 ft of water. We can
organise dive groups through a local dive operation for what is
the most amazing wreck dives in the world. Or there are guided tours
around this island of contrasts.
Espiritu Santo, a short internal air flight north of Pt Vila.
Vanuatu
is a Malaria Risk Area so insect repellent is vital and it is recommended
that you check with your own doctor for the requirements this area
whether malaria medication is necessary or suitable for you.
Villages
- we will be visiting some fairly remote places, and we are fortunate
to be able see the life in their village communities. People live
in traditionally built bamboo and thatch houses, cook by heated
stone ovens and are without electricity. They are extremely welcoming
of visitors even though our lifestyles are literally worlds apart.
There
is no problem about photography but we should be sensitive when
using cameras or video. Where there is a modern school we've found
that paper and writing supplies are extremely useful and the ship
brings school books for them each year. If you have room when packing
for a couple of cloths items that you wouldn't mind leaving behind,
these are always very gratefully received in the villages.
If
a local cruising permit is levied on the ship by Vanuatu officials
then this will be shared and charged individually. (Maximum $40-50
per person. Last year the authorities did not charge the ship.)
On
arriving onboard you will be shown your berths, introduced to the
crew, and signed on Ship's Articles as Voyage Crew members. Much
of the morning will be spent introducing you to the ship and explaining
the various routines, safety procedures and equipment and how the
watch system works.
Our
sailing between anchorages in the island groups may involve some
motoring but also some quite intense sail handling. However this
allows those who would rather relish the amazing scenery to stand
back and let the keener sailors get involved in handling the ship
under sail. Everyone is involved in the duty watch system as Voyage
Crew which will operate while we are under way and you may have
your turn at the helm, on bow lookout or helping trim sail or help
tack ship. Going aloft is a unique experience but is not compulsory
and everyone can decide when or if theyd like to. People of
all ages join us and many have never sailed before - previous experience
is certainly not necessary.
There
are 13 permanent crew who maintain and sail the ship who are there
to assist and help you enjoy your time aboard.
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